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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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1^    IIIII2.2 


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JJ. 


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PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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23  WEbT  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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■WW^Mi*  W  t^iiWJ'  t 'i""*^  I  ■"* 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


D 


Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 
D 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieura 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  cert  lines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  f ilm6es. 


rr^  Additional  comments:/ 

|/yJ    Commentaires  suppl6mentaires 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilieur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de'vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 


D 

D 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu^  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  in6gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  mat6riel  suppi^mentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


0 

24X 


28X 


32X 


IS«.^'jf'.W?''.'*.*-%'? 


1> 


ils 

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age 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  thu  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet6  de  I'exempiaire  fiimd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmds  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  fiim^s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  —^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
fiimds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  11  est  film6  d  partir 
de  I'angie  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  has,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


ata 


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2 

3 

1 

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SYNOPSIS 


OF  THE  CRUISE 


or  Tui 


U.  S.   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION, 


"  f^  *!fe 


DUBINQ  TUB  VBARS 


1838,  '39,  '40,  '41,  &  '42; 


DELIVERED  BEFORE  THE  NATIONAL  INSTITUTE,    , 


BY  ITS  COMMANDER, 


,/ 


CHARLES  WILKES,  ESQ., 


ON  TUB  TWBNTIBTII  OF  JUNE,  1842. 

TO  WnicH  IS  ADDED  A  LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  SCIENTIFIC  CORPS 
ATTACHES)  TO  THE  EXPEDITION. 


A 


.^^J^ 

■^%>s. 

^;;~:,    ■ 

_,..' 

• 

■ 

•  • 

1 

WASHINGTON: 

RINTBD   BV 

PBTBR 

FOROB 

1842. 


■'f 


Copy 


*i 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1842, 
By  Peter  Force, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  Dintriot  Court  of  the  District  of  Columbia. 


/ 


SYNOPSIS,  ^c. 


Mr.  President, 

and  Gentlemen  of  the  JVational  Institute : 

It  affords  me  great  gratification  to  comply  with  the 
resolution  of  the  Honorable  the  Secretary  of  the  Nary, 
at  your  meeting  of  the  20th  Instant,  "  requesting  itac  ttf 
furnish  for  the  use  of  the  Institute  a  succjnct  statement  of 
the  cruise  of  the  Exploring  Expedition." 

It  gives  me  pleasure  to  do  so,  as  I  fCiHy  believe  that 
many  of  the  prejudices  that  prevail  respecting  its  op6rat- 
tions  will  be  dissipated.  I  am  surprised  so  little  informa- 
tion prevails  respecting  k^  having  kept  the  Department 
fully  advised  as  ta  ks  course,  operatibus,  &.c.,  &c. 

In  the  first  plate,  I  shall  beg  your  indulgence  to  follow 
me  through  a  short  sketch  of  its  organization,  before 
entering  upon  its  operations ;  by  which  you  will  under- 
stand my  position  in  this  undertaking,  the  duties  re- 
quired, how  performed,  and  what  we  have  been  able  to 
accomplish. 

Subsequent  to  ray  depm'tui*'e  ft'om  thfe  tJniterf  States,  it 
was  stated  in  the  public  prints,  that  I  had  obtained  the 
command  thorough  interest,  and  that  I  had  been  cam- 
paigning at  Washington,  &c. 

Previoiis  ta  my  arrival  in  the  waters  of  tlie  United 


r  ■ 

!    . 


i:i^i 


States,  and  before  I  was  aware  of  what  my  reception 
was  to  be  by  the  Department,  I  wis  desirous  of  putting 
this  point  in  its  true  light.  I  therefore  addressed  letters 
to  the  late  President  and  Jiis  Cabinet  to  know  if  I  had 
myself,  or  through  any  of  my  friends,  ever  made  any 
interest  to  obtain  the  command.  To  these  applications 
I  have  had  several  answers.  When  all  are  i  eceived  they 
will  be  published.  The  one  from  your  honorable  and 
gifted  presiding  officer,  Mr.  Poinsett,  from  whom  I  re- 
ceived the  appointment,  I  will  here  insert,  as  it  alone 
places  the  affair  in  its  true  light. 

(COPF.) 

^  'Sir :  I  have  received  your  letter  of  the  14th  instant, 
^  and  m  compliance  with  your  request  take  pleasure  in 

statmg,  that  no  interest  was  made,  either  by  yourself  or 
'friends,  directly  or  indirectly,  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 

cunng  you  the  command  of  the  Exploring  Squadron. 
^  It  was  conferred  upon  you  by  the  President,  on  my  re- 
^  commendation,  given  without  any  solicitation  whatever, 
^  and.  before  you,  or  any  person  connected  with  you, 

could  have  been  aware  of  my  intention  to  propose  you 

for  this  service. 

'  I  am,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)        J.  R.  POINSETT. 

'  Mr.  Charles  Wilkes,  U.  S.  N.' 

..t,. . 

I  must  here  state,  that  I  had  never  seen  Mr.  Poinsett, 
until  a  week  previous  to  the  appointment  being  tendered 
to  me.  The  introduction  took  place  on  my  arrival  in 
Washington,  where  I  was  ordered  from  the  Southern 
surveys,  which  I  was  then  engaged  in.  I  have  called 
for  and  demanded  a  court,  to  enable  me  to  meet,  not 


y  reception 
of  putting 
ssed  letters 
'w  if  I  had 
made  any 
ipplications 
:eived  they 
lorable  and 
i'hom  I  re- 
as  it  alone 


1th  instant, 
pleasure  in 
yourself  or 
36  of  pro- 
Squadron, 
on  my  re- 
whatever, 
with  you, 
opose  you 


SETT. 


.  Poinsett, 
:  tendered 
arrival  in 
Southern 
ave  called 
meet,  not 


only  the  fiivolous  and  recriminative  charges  pret'erreil 
against  me  by  those  who  have  been  sent  home  under 
arrest,  but  to  have  a  full  investigation  into  all  my  private, 
as  well  as  public  acts,  since  I  have  had  the  honor  to  com- 
mand our  country's  first  Scientific  Expedition,  and  feel 
confident  my  conduct  will  bear  the  strictest  scrutiny. 

As  respects  Captain  Hudson,  his  position  has  been 
equally  misunderstood.  He  was  called  to  the  station  by 
the  highest  officer  in  the  Government,  to  carry  out  this 
great  national  object,  and  I  am  fully  convinced,  when 
the  facts  come  to  be  known,  (which  they  shortly  will 
be,)  it  will  be  seen  that  his  conduct  was  dictated  by 
the  purest  patriotism.  During  the  whole  four  years  of 
our  arduous  service,  not  an  unkind  word  has  ever  passed 
between  us ;  and  it  is  my  pride,  as  well  as  my  duty,  to 
acknowledge  how  often  I  have  relied  on  his  sound  ad- 
vice and  warm  friendship. 

The  commander  of  the  Porpoise  (Lieut.  Cad.  Ring- 
gold) has  assisted  me  in  every  way  in  his  power,  and  to 
his  zeal  much  is  due. 

The  scientific  gentlemen  who  accompanied  this  expe- 
dition have  done  all  in  their  power  to  further  the  objects 
oi  it.  Hereafter  you  will  be  able  to  judge  of  their  indus- 
try and  zeal  in  the  cause,  from  their  results. 

Too  much  credit  cannot  be  given  to  the  officeia,  It 
gives  me  pleasure  to  testify  to  their  untiring  zeal  in  the 
arduous  duties.  The  charts  shown  to  you,  joined  with 
their  necessary  professional  services,  will  give  you  an  idea 
how  they  have  been  employed. 

The  crews,  including  the  marines,  have  proved  them- 
selves cheerful  and  cool  in  danger,  showing  that  true 
courage  ?ind  endurance  of  hardships,  which  are  the 
characteristics  of  our  mariners ;  prompt  in  obedience,  and 


iW 


1     'i 


:l 


H'i 


ready  at  all  limes  to  submit  to  the  necessary  discipline  in 
such  trying  service. 

This  synopsis  of  the  duties  performed  by  the  Exploring 
Expedition  will  necessarily  be  confined  within  narrow 
limits,  affording  but  a  brief  detail  of  the  results  of  the 
cruise,  and  which  is  submitted  to  the  Institute  only  to 
give  some  insight  into  the  operations  of  the  expedition, 
and  the  results  that  may  be  expected  from  its  labors,' 
previous  to  its  being  published  by  the  authority  of  Con- 
gress in  a  form  that  may  be  commensurate  with  the  im- 
portance of  the  undertaking,  and  the  magnitude  of  the ' 
results. 

In  May,  1836,  the  law  of  Congress  was  passed,  autho- 
rizing an  exploring  expedition  to  be  sent  out.  The  pur- 
port of  the  instructions  were  as  follows,  viz :   '  To  explore 

*  and  survey  the  Southern  Ocean,  having  in  view  the  im- 
'  portant  interesf^of  our  commerce  embarked  in  the  whale 

*  fisheries,  as  well  as  to  determine  the  existence  of  all 

*  doubtful  islands  and  shoals ;  and  to  discover  and  accu- 

*  rately  fix  the  position  of  those  which  lie  in  or  near  the 

*  track  pursued  by  our  merchant  vessels  in  that  quarter, 

*  and  may  hitherto  have  escaped  the  observation  of  scien- 

*  tific  navigators. 

'  Although  the  primary  object  of  the  expedition  is  the 

*  promotion  of  the  great  interest  of  commerce  and  navi- 
'  gadon,  yet  all  occasions  will  be  talcen,  not  incompatible 
'  V  ith  the  great  purpose  of  the  undertaking,  to  extend 

*  the  bounds  of  science,  and  to  promote  the  acquisition 

*  of  knowledge.  For  the  more  successful  attainment  of 
'  these,  several  scientific  gentlemen  will  accompany  the 
'  expedition,  for  the  departments  of  philology,  zoology, 
'  choncology,  geology,  mineralogy,  and  botany,  with  suit- 

*  able  artists,  and  a  horticulturist,  and  are  placed  under 


ron. 


1-, 


1. 


liscipline  in 

:  Exploring 
bin  narrow 
lilts  of  the 
lite  only  to 
3xpedition, 
its  labors, 
ty  of  Con- 
th  the  im- 
ide  of  the ' 

led,  autho- 
The  pur- 
?o  explore 
jw  the  im- 
the  whale 
nee  of  all 
and  accu- 
r  near  the 
it  quarter, 
1  of  scien- 

lion  is  the 
and  navi- 
ompatible 
to  extend 
cquisition 
nment  of 
ipany  the 
zoology, 
with  suit- 
ed under 


w 

'  your  direction.  The  astronomy,  hydrography,  geogra- 
'  phy,  terrestrial  magnetism,  meteorology,  and  physics, 
'  are  confided  to  yourself  and  the  officers  of  the  navy,  in 
'  whose  zeal  and  talents  the  Department  confidently 
'  rely.'  ^ 

The  route  pointed  out  in  the  instructions  was  as  fol- 
lows, viz : 

*  From  Norfolk  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  crossing  the  line 
'  between  18°  and  22°  west  longitude,  and  keeping  within 
'  these  meridians,  with  a  view  of  determining  certain 
'  vigias  or  shoals  supposed  to  exist.  At  Rio  de  Janeiro 
'  you  will  make  observations  to  determine  the  longitude 
'  of  it,  and  Cape  Frio,  replenish  your  supplies,  and  thence 
'  proceed  to  Rio  Negro,  in  41°  south  latitude,  with  a 
'  view  of  ascertaining  the  resources  of  the  country,  and  its 
'  facilities  for  trade,  and  to  make  the  necessary  surveys; 
'  from  thence  to  some  safe  port  or  ports  in  Terra  del 
'  Fuego,  where  the  members  of  the  scientific  corps  may 
'  have  an  opportunity  of  prosecuting  their  researches. 

'  Leaving  the  hirger  vessels  moored,  and  the  officers 
'  occupied  there  in  such  duties  as  you  may  deem  proper 
'  in  relation  to  surveys,  you  will  proceed  with  the  brig 
'  Porpoise,  and  the  two  tenders,  to  explore  the  Southern 
'  Antarctic  to  the  south  of  Powell's  Group,  and  between 
'  it  and  Palmer's  Land,  following  the  track  of  Weddel, 
'  and  endeavoring  to  reach  a  high  south  latitude,  taking 
'  care,  however,  not  to  be  obliged  to  winter  there,  and  to 
'  rejoin  the  vessels  between  the  middle  of  February  and 
'  the  beginning  of  March. 

'  On  your  return,  you  will  then,  with  all  your  squad- 
'  ron,  stretch  to  the  southward  and  westward,  as  far  as  the 
'  ne plus  ultra  of  Cook,  in  105°  west  longitude,  and  return 
'  northward  to  Valparaiso,  where  you  will  meet  your 
'  store-ship. 


M 


;a 


»     (,, 


'  1 


if 


*  From  this  port,  after  refitting,  you  will  direct  your 

*  course  across  the  Pacific  Ocean,  towards  the  Navigator's 

*  Group,  to   verify  the   position  of  certain  shoals  and 

*  islands  laid  down  in  the  charts  as  doubtful.     On  your 

*  route  you  will  visit  the  Society  Islands,  and  examine  the 
'  Island  of  Eimc  >  and  its  harbors. 

*  From  the  Navigator's  Group  you  will  proceed  to  that 

*  of  the  Fiji,  which  you  will  examine  with  particular  at- 
'  tention,  with  a  view  of  selecting  a  harbor  for  our  vessels 

*  engaged  in  the  whale  fisheries,  and  general  commerce 

*  in  these  seas.    After  selecting  the  island  and  harbor  best 

*  adapted  for  this  purpose,  you  will  endeavor  to  make  such 

*  arrangements  as  will  insure  a  supply  of  vegetables  and 

*  fresh  provisions  to  vessels  visiting  it  hereafter. 

*  You  will  thence  proceed  to  the  Port  of  Sydney,  N. 

*  S.  W.,  where  adequate  supplies  may  be  obtained. 

*  From  thence,  you  will  make  a  second  attempt  to 

*  penetrate  within  the  Antarctic  Circle,  south  of  Van  Die- 

*  man's  Land,  and  as  far  west  as  46°  east  longitude,  or  to 

*  Enderby's  Land,  and  thence  towards  the  Sandwich  Is- 

*  lands,  where  your  second  store-ship  will  meet  you. 

'  Thence  you  will  direct  your  course  to  the  North  West 

*  Coast,  making  surveys  and  examinations  of  the  territory 

*  of  the  United  States  on  its  seaboard,  the  Columbia  River, 

*  and  the  coast  of  California,  &c.,  &,c. 

*  Thence  proceed  to  the  coast  of  Japan,  and  from 

*  thence  to  the  Sooloo  Sea,  in  order  to  determine  if  there 
'  is  a  safe  route  through  it  which  will  shorten  the  passage 
'  of  our  vessels,  during  the  contrary  monsoons,  to  and 
'  from  China.  From  thence  pass  through  the  Straits  of 
'  Billiton  to  Singapore,  replenish  your  supplies  there,  and 
'  return  through  the  Straits  of  Sunda,  by  way  of  the  Cape 
'  of  Good  Hope,  to  the  United  States.' 


i  J  '■ 


E. 


'irr' 


direct  your 

Navigator's 

shoals  and 

.     On  your 

examine  the 

iceed  to  that 
articular  at- 
•  our  vessels 
d  commerce 

harbor  best 
o  make  such 
[etables  and 
er. 

Sydney,  N. 
ained. 

attempt  to 
of  Van  Die- 
fitude,  or  to 
mdwich  Is- 
set  you. 
North  West 
:he  territory 
imbia  River, 

0 

,  and  from 
line  if  there 
the  passage 
ons,  to  and 
le  Straits  of 
s  there,  and 
of  the  Cape 


I  will  now  proceed  to  give  the  operations  of  the  expe- 
dition, following  its  course. 

My  appointment  to  take  charge  ol  It  was  dated  20th 
April,  1838. 

The  time  appointed  for  its  departure  was  the  10th  of 
August.  During  the  intervening  three  months  the  vessels 
were  fitted  out,  the  necessary  experiments  were  made 
with  the  pendulum  and  magnetic  apparatus  at  Washing- 
ton, the  chronometers  rated,  and  officers  (all  volunteers) 
ordered.  On  the  8th  of  August,  the  vessels,  consisting  of 
the  sloops  of  war  Vincennes  and  Peacock,  brig  Porpoise, 
store-ship  Relief,  and  schooners  Sea  Gull  and  Flying  Fish, 
tenders,  dropped  down  to  Hampton  Roads;  the  Relief  store- 
ship  being  the  only  one  that  belonged  to  the  former  or 
first  squadron. 

On  the  11th  August  the  squadron  was  ready  for  sea; 
but  it  was  detained  until  the  18th,  in  consequence  of  my 
not  having  received  my  instructions,  which  did  not  reach 
me  until  the  17th.  The  outfit  of  the  expedition  I  felt  was 
very  defective.  But  it  was  deemed  all  important  to  take 
our  departure,  and  remedy  the  defects,  &c.,  as  well  as  laid 
in  our  power,  at  different  stopping  places ;  and  accordingly 
we  left  the  capes  on  the  19th  August. 

After  our  departure,  orders  were  given  to  rendezvous 
at  Madeira,  with  the  exception  of  the  Relief  store-ship, 
which  vessel,  in  consequence  of  her  dull  sailing,  was  found 
to  be  illy  adapted  to  cooperate  with  the  rest.  She  was 
therefore  despatched  for  Rio  Janeiro  to  touch  at  the  Cape 
de  Verdes.  The  scientific  gentlemen,  previous  to  de- 
parture, were  distributed  between  the  Vincennes,  Pea- 
cock, and  Relief,  in  order  to  produce  the  best  chance  for 
results. 

My  object  for  touching  at  Madeira  was  to  avoid  too  long 
2 


38'' 


ii 


\ 


i  f 


f  il 


I  ;  Si 


^Ul 


Mi 
\ . 


10 

a  cruise  at  sea  at  the  first  offset,  both  to  officers  and  men, 
and  to  enable  me  to  pass  over  the  location  of  several 
shoals  that  would  be  in  or  near  my  track.  At  Madeira 
we  staid  a  week.  Here  we  were  enabled  to  effect  some 
few  repairs  to  the  Peacock  and  tenders,  and  also  to  explore 
the  island,  measuring  the  altitudes  of  its  peaks,  and  making 
the  necessary  observations  for  the  rating  of  our  chrono- 
meters, those  for  magnetism,  and  collections  in  natural 
history,  botany,  zoology,  &,c.,  &,c. 

From  Madeira  we  passed  on  towards  the  Cape  de 
Verdes,  examining  the  supposed  localities  of  the  doubtful 
shoals.  The  manner  of  doing  this  was  as  follows,  viz:  when 
arrived  within  a  short  distance  of  these  locations,  and  in 
their  latitude,  a  course  was  shaped  to  run  over  the  posi- 
tion, the  squadron  being  spread  from  three  to  five  miles 
apart,  and  with  good  lookouts  at  the  mast  heads.  Thus  a 
space  of  twenty  miles  in  latitude  and  from  fifty  to  sixty 
miles  in  longitude  was  carefully  passed  over.  That  the  po- 
sitions designated  were  run  over,  there  can  exist  no  doubt, 
as  I  found  on  our  arrival  at  known  and  well  established 
points,  that  our  chronometers  were  correct. 

The  Cape  de  Verde  Islands  were  reached  on  the  7th 
of  October.  Not  finding  the  Relief,  or  any  news  of  her,  I 
left  the  next  day,  and  was  employed  cruising  on  and  look- 
ing after  the  shoals  and  vigias,  agreeably  to  my  instructions, 
in  the  same  manner  as  indicated  above.  No  appearance  of 
these  shoals  was  seen.  We  arrived  at  Rio  on  the  24th 
of  November. 

Here  every  opportunity  was  taken  to  explore  the 
country.  Great  industry  prevailed  in  all  the  departments 
of  the  expedition,  to  increase  our  collections  and  make 
examinations.  The  Island  of  Enxados,  in  this  fine  harbor, 
was  occupied  for  an  observatory,  by  permission  of  the  Go- 


II 


rs  and  men, 
I  of  several 
At  Madeira 
effect  some 
10  to  explore 
and  making 
)ur  chrono- 
i  in  natural 

le  Cape  de 
the  doubtful 
s,  viz:  when 
ions,  and  in 
sr  the  posi- 

0  five  miles 
ds.  Thus  a 
fty  to  sixty 
rhat  the  po- 
st no  doubt, 

established 

i  on  the  7th 
ivs  of  her,  I 
n  and  look- 
nstructions, 
ipearance  of 
m  the  24th 

xplore  the 
lepartments 

1  and  make 
fine  harbor, 
i  of  the  Go- 


vernment. Here  the  officers  and  myself  were  engaged  in 
a  series  of  pendulum  observations — the  longitude  deduced 
from  moon  culmiuating  stars,  and  circummeridian  alti- 
tudes taken  for  latitude.  Those  for  magnetism,  meteoro- 
logy, and  the  tides,  claimed  our  attentions.  During  this 
period  the  necessary  repairs,  alterations,  &,c.,  were  making 
in  the  vessels,  not  only  to  make  them  more  suitable  for 
the  service,  but  to  increase  their  accommodations.  The 
meridian  distance  of  Cape  Frio  from  Enxados  was  deter- 
mined by  chronometers.  The  three  vessels  that  were 
first  ready^  viz:  Peacock,  Sea  Gull,  and  Flying  Fish, 
were  employed  in  measuring  a  base  line  by  sound  from 
Cape  Frio  to  the  observatory  on  Enxados  Island,  in  order 
to  ascertain  with  what  accuracy  it  could  be  done. 

The  results  of  this  measured  base  proved  satisfactory, 
the  details  of  which  it  would  be  impossible  to  give  in  this 
place.  It  is  believed  to  have  been  the  longest  distance  ever 
measured  in  this  manner,  and  satisfied  me  that  in  our 
coming  duties  it  might  be  relied  upon  for  ordinary  bases, 
in  surveying  operations.  A  shoal  off  Cape  St.  Thomas 
was  ordered  to  be  surveyed,  but  there  was  not  time  to 
effect  it. 

The  Relief  arrived  on  the  27th  of  November,  after  a 
passage  of  one  hundred  days.  A  large  quantity  of  the 
stores  of  the  squadron  on  board  of  her,  were,  on  inspec- 
tion, found  damaged.  Great  exertions  were  made  to  re- 
plenish them,  and  get  her  off  to  reach  our  contemplated 
rendezvous  at  Cape  Horn  in  time  to  avoid  delays  from  her 
dull  sailing.  This  was  effected  by  the  19th  of  December, 
on  which  day  she  sailed. 

On  the  6th  of  January  we  left  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  stood 
to  the  southward  for  Rio  Negro.  On  the  27th  of  Janua- 
ry we  anchored  off  its  bar.    By  the  2d  of  February,  our 


:^..>>^ 


1  ! 


U 


!    t 


i  i^ 


!  W' 


!  m 


duties  were  fulfilled ;  on  which  day  we  sailed  for  Cape 
Horn,   passing  over  the  localities  of  those  shoals  that 
were  said  to  exist  in  our  track,  and  through  the  Straits  of 
Le  Maire.     On  the  16th  of  February  we  passed  round 
Cape  Horn,  and  then,  through  the  passage  between  the 
Hermit  Island  and  False  Cape  Horn,  to  Orange  Harbor, 
where  we  found  the  Relief  had  anchored  a  few  days  pre- 
viously.   Here  immediate  steps  were  taken  to  complete 
the  arrangements;  the  Peacock  and  Flying  Fish  were 
despatched  towards  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  Cook.   The  Relief 
was  ordered  with  the  scientific  gentlemen  to  pass  into  the 
Straits  of  Magellan,  by  the  Breck-nock  passage,  for  the 
purpose  of  enabling  them  to  follow  more  fully  their  inves- 
tigations.    I  took  the  Porpoise  and  Sea  Gull  to  accom- 
plish that  part  of  my  instructions  for  exploring  the  Ant- 
arctic sea,  between  Powell's  Group  and  Palmer's  Land. 
The  Vincennes  was  left  moored  in  Orange  Harbor ;  the 
boats  fitted  out  to  make  some  necessary  surveys  and  ex- 
aminations.    I  feel  it  my  duty  here  to  state  the  use  I 
derived  from  the  sailing  directions  of  Captain  King,  and 
to  bear  testimony  to  their  accuracy.    We  had  copies  of  the 
sailing  directions,  but  no  charts. 

We  all  left  Orange  Harbor  on  the  24th  February.  I  had 
little  idea  of  effecting  any  thing  at  this  late  season.  The 
only  thing  that  appeared  possible  was  the  sighting  of 
Palmer's  Land,  and  getting  its  trend  to  the  southward  and 
eastward.  I  judged  the  lateness  of  the  season  might  be 
favorable  for  this  object,  from  the  summer's  ice  having 
drifted  off;  the  trend  of  the  land  to  the  S.  S.  E.,  was  seen 
for  about  thirty  miles,  and  several  small  rocky  islets  were 
found  off  its  eastern  cape,  which  I  named  Cape  Hope.  It 
is  high,  and,  like  all  the  land  in  high  latitudes,  covered 
with  snow  and  ice.     The  South  Shetlands  were  sighted. 


.^._.s^ 


3d  for  Cape 
shoals  that 
le  Straits  of 
issed  round 
etween  the 
ige  Harbor, 
V  days  pre- 
:o  complete 
Fish  were 
The  Relief 
ass  into  the 
ige,  for  the 
heir  inves- 
I  to  accom- 
5  the  Ant- 
ler's Land, 
arbor;  the 
s  and  ex- 
the  use  I 
King,  and 
pies  of  the 

ary.  I  had 
son.  The 
ghting  of 
iward  and 
might  be 
3e  having 
,  was  seen 
dets  were 
Hope.  It 
I,  covered 
3  sighted, 


13 

and  points  verified  as  well  as  they  could  be  with  the  weather 
we  had.  During  this  time  of  thirty-six  days  we  had  scarce- 
ly a  single  day  to  dry  clothes,  and  the  men  suffered  much 
from  the  continued  dampness  they  were  exposed  to.  We 
acquired  all  that  could  be  expected  at  the  late  season  of 
the  year,  viz :  some  experience  among  the  ice. 

The  Peacock  and  Flying  Fish  proceeded  to  effect  the 
objects  pointed  out  in  their  instructions.  From  adverse 
gales  and  boisterous  weather,  they  were  greatly  detained. 
One  of  the  objects  was  to  ascertain  if  the  line  of  icy  barrier 
had  increased  to  the  northward  since  the  time  of  Cook. 
The  Flying  Fish  reached  within  sixty  miles  of  the  ne 
plus  ultra,  before  she  fell  in  with  the  firm  barrier.  The 
results  of  this  cruise  will  throw  much  light  upon  the  state 
of  the  ice.  Both  vessels  incurred  great  hazard,  particular- 
ly the  schooner,  for  whose  escape  much  credit  is  due  to 
her  commander.  On  the  25th  of  March  these  vessels  bore 
up ;  the  Peacock  for  Valparaiso,  and  the  Flying  Fish  for 
Orange  Bay,  which  she  reached  a  few  days  after  I  arrived 
there.  The  Relief  had  been  ordered  to  return  from  the 
Straits  of  Magellan,  by  the  Straits  of  Le  Maire,  to  Orange 
Harbor.  Not  having  made  her  appearance  by  the  middle 
of  April,  I  determined  on  leaving  the  Sea  Gull  and  Fly- 
ing Fish  to  await  her.  In  case  of  accident  the  commander 
of  the  Relief  had  orders  to  send  information  as  soon  as 
possible  to  Orange  Bay,  where  the  Vincennes  had  been 
left.  As  her  time  had  expired  and  no  news  been  received, 
I  found  it  impossible  to  await  longer,  and  having  comple- 
ted all  our  observatory  duties,  on  the  20th  April  I  left  the 
harbor  for  Valparaiso,  in  company  with  the  Porpoise. 
We  arrived  on  the  15th  of  May.  Here  I  learned  the  dis- 
aster which  the  Relief  had  met  with  at  the  Island  of  Noir, 


'% 


^^«WWt!Wrijia-l  MM' 


"   li 


>w 


I 


M 

in  the  loss  of  all  her  anchors,  and  the  abandonment  of  her 
cruise,  and  of  having  sailed  for  Callao  with  the  store-ship, 
in  consequence  of  the  danger  of  lying  in  the  harbor  of 
Valparaiso  during  the  season  of  the  northers.    This  com- 
pelled me  to  follow  with  the  squadron.   On  the  19th  May 
the  Flying  Fish  arrived,  having  parted  with  the  Sea  Gull 
off  Cape  Horn  on  the  29th  April,  which  was  the  last  and 
only  account  that  has  been  received  of  her.     The  expe- 
dition sustained  a  great  loss  from  this  melancholy  disaster, 
not  only  in  being  deprived  of  the  services  of  the  gallant 
young  officers,  Reid  and  Bacon,  and  crew,  but  also  in  the 
use  of  the  vessel.    We  all  deeply  felt  their  fate. 

On  the  6th  June  we  left  for  Callao,  which  we  reached 
after  a  passage  of  twelve  days.  Here,  as  in  Chili,  every 
opportunity  was  afforded  of  obtaining  information.  Par- 
ties were  sent  into  the  interior  and  much  information 
elicited  in  the  various  departments  of  science,  as  well  as 
the  manners,  customs,  &c. 

The  usual  observations  were  made  at  San  Lorenzo,  and 
our  outfits  and  supplies  completed;  in  which  we  were 
greatly  assisted  by  Captain  McKeever,  commanding  U.  S. 
sloop  of  war  Falmouth,  to  whom  the  expedition  is  much 
indebted. 

From  here  I  determined  to  send  the  Relief  home,  after 
depositing  the  stores  for  the  squadron  at  the  most  conve- 
nient points,  viz:  Sandwich  Islands  and  Sydney,  not  only 
to  avoid  the  delays  she  occasioned,  but  useless  expense, 
as  I  found  I  could,  in  case  of  need,  obtain  a  vessel  at  one- 
fourth  her  cost  to  transport  our  stores. 

In  an  expedition  similar  to  the  one  I  have  just  returned 
from,  too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  providing  vessels 
of  equal  qualities  in  point  of  sailing.     In  squadrons,  the 


^,.. , . ijimmmimmmtmim 


-»     r- 


A.,,.^^ 


"■'Wv- 


Iffe 


n 


iment  of  her 
3  store-ship, 
B  harbor  of 

This  com- 
le  19th  May 
^e  Sea  Gull 
the  last  and 

The  expe- 
Dly  disaster, 

the  gallant 
t  also  in  the 
te. 

we  reached 
[Jhili,  every 
tion.  Par- 
information 
,  as  well  as 

)renzo,  and 
1  we  were 
iding  U.  S. 
on  is  much 

iome,  after 
lost  conve- 
y,  not  only 
s  expense, 
isel  at  one- 

st  returned 
ing  vessels 
idrons,  the 


ilullest  sailer  will  always  command  tne  movements- 
Orders  were  given  to  her  commander  accordingly,  and 
the  necessary  changes  made  in  the  officers  and  crews. 

On  the  12th  July  the  Vincennes,  Peacock,  Porpoise, 
and  Flying  Fish,  left,  and  proceeded  to  examine  the  Po- 
moutou  Group  or  low  Archipelago,  pointed  out  in  some 
notes  submitted  by  Admiral  Krusenstern,  which  were 
made  a  part  of  my  instructions.  The  island  of  Clermont  de 
Tonnere  was  first  made.  Our  determinations  agree  with 
those  of  Duperry,  and  at  Serle  Island  we  agree  with  both 
Beechy  and  Duperry.  There  is  no  island  existing  between 
Clermont  de  Tonnere  and  Serle  Islands.  They  were  both 
seen  at  the  same  time  from  the  mast  head,  and  the  distance 
was  measured  by  patent  dog  and  observations.  All  the 
points  to  which  this  distinguished  navigator  (Krusen- 
stern) had  called  my  attention  have  been  examined,  and 
in  many  cases  his  suppositions  were  verified.  The  islands 
surveyed  in  this  group  were  examined  closely  in  the 
boats,  and  landed  upon,  twenty-eight  in  number.  On 
Peacock  Island  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observing  the 
solar  eclipse  in  September,  1839. 

The  islands  that  were  out  of  our  route  were  subse- 
quently visited  in  1840,  of  which  I  shall  speak  hereafter. 
On  my  arrival  at  Tahiti,  Matavai  Bay,  it  was  gratifying 
to  find  that  our  chronometers  approximated  very  closely 
to  the  longitude  of  Point  Venus. 

Here  connected  surveys  were  made  of  the  harbor  of 
Matavai,  Papoa,  Tanoa,  and  Papieti.  The  tidal  observa- 
tions claimed  my  attention  particularly  here;  and  although 
many  anomalies  seemed  to  prevail,  in  consequence  of  the 
trade  winds,  yet  in  their  absence  they  (the  tides)  obeyed 
the  general  law,  and  there  appears  but  little  difficulty  in 
accounting  for  the  anomaly  of  the  high  tide  at  meridian. 


.  I 


# 


.^....^ 


I  \i 


i|^ 


In 


i'l  ) 


10 

The  increase  or  growth  of  coral  on  the  Dolphin  Bank 
having  been  referred  to  by  those  who  have  passed  before  us, 
my  attention  was  called  to  it.  I  found  nothing  satisfactory 
could  be  obtained  through  soundings,  and  being  desirous 
of  having  some  mark  by  which  this  may  be  ascertained 
in  future,  I  had  a  pillar  planted  on  Point  Venus,  whose 
surface  above  the  least  soundings  on  the  Dolphin  Bank 
was  accurately  leveled.  A  line  was  cut  in  the  stone,  show- 
ing the  direction  or  range  in  which  the  difference  of  level 
was  taken.  This  will  hereafter  obviate  the  errors  arising 
from  making  the  depth  of  the  water  the  medium  of  mea- 
surement, (always  uncertain  and  devoidof  accuracy,)  and 
which  I  hope  will  enable  after-navigators  to  ascertain 
and  settle  this  interesting  question.  The  stone  was  tabooed 
by  the  chief,  and  sunk  four  feet  in  the  ground,  and,  I 
trust,  will  remain  untouched. 

Parties  were  sent  over  the  island  to  the  Mouniarn 
Lake,  and  many  of  the  peaks  in  the  island  ascended.  It 
became  necessary  that  the  Flying  Fish  should  undergo 
some  repairs  here.  The  Peacock  was  left  with  her  in  the 
harbor  of  Papieti.  Much  statistical  information  was  ob- 
tained here  relative  to  our  whale  fishery.  The  schools 
were  visited,  missionary  operations  examined  into,  and 
our  collections  increased.  The  Porpoise  was  despatched 
to  look  for  some  islands  and  reefs  on  the  route  to  the 
Navigator's  Group.  The  Vincennes  visited  the  Island 
of  Eimeo  and  its  harbors,  thence  through  the  Society 
Islands  towards  the  Navigator's  Group.  At  Rose  Island, 
the  easternmost  of  the  Navigator's,  the  Porpoise  was 
again  fallen  in  with ;  and  after  surveying  the  two  Wmd- 
waird  Islands  in  company,  she  was  despatched  to  survey 
the  Island  of  Savaii,  and  to  land  officers  on  that  of  Upolu 
and  Savaii,  to  observe  the  tides.    The  Vincennes  entered 


1ft...  ^ 


)lphin  Bank 
id  before  us, 
satisfactory 
ng  desirous 
ascertained 
nus,  whose 
Iphin  Bank 
tone,  show- 
nce  of  level 
Tors  arising 
um  of  mea- 
uracy,)  and 
:o  ascertain 
ivas  tabooed 
md,  and;  I 

i  Mouniain 
;ended.  It 
lid  undergo 
I  her  in  the 
on  was  ob- 
rhe  schools 
1  into,  and 
despatched 
>ute  to  the 
the  Island 
he  Society 
lose  Island, 
rpoise  was 
two  Wrnd- 
1  to  survey 
It  of  Upolu 
les  entered 


17 


the  harbor  of  Pago  Pago,  in  the  Island  of  Tuturlla,  where, 
in  a  short  time,  she  was  joined  by  the  Peacock  and  Fly- 
ing Fish ;  they  were  then  despatched  to  survey  the  Island 
of  Upolu. 

The  survey  of  these  islands,  together  with  all  their 
harbors,  reefs,  &,c.,  &,c.,  have  been  very  particularly 
made,  and  what  was  not  accomplished  this  year  was 
re-surveyed  the  next,  by  a  portion  of  the  squadron  sent 
for  that  purpose. 

By  the  1 0th  of  November  we  rendezvoused  at  the 
harbor  of  Apia,  and  finding  it  too  late  to  attempt  any 
thing  in  the  Fiji  Group,  we  sailed  for  Sydney,  where  we 
arrived  on  the  28tb  of  November,  passing  down  to  the 
westward  of  the  Fiji  Group.  At  Sydney  we  were  re- 
ceived with  kindness,  attention,  and  even  enthusiasm, 
not  only  by  the  authorities,  but  the  public  at  large.  Sir 
George  Gipps,  the  governor,  offered  us  every  assistance 
in  his  power;  we  wanted  for  nothing  that  was  desired. 
During  the  time  of  our  stay  the  usual  experiments  and 
investigations  claimed  our  attention,  stores  and  provisions 
were  laid  in  for  a  year,  and  every  preparation  made  that 
could  be  thought  of  for  the  coming  cruise  among  the  ice. 
Believing  that  the  gentlemen  in  charge  of  the  scientific 
departments  before  referred  to,  could  be  more  advan- 
tageously employed  in  investigations  in  New  Holland  and 
New  Zealand,  I  ordered  them  to  pass  the  next  three 
months  in  these  two  countries,  obtaining  information  and 
making  collections  in  their  several  departments,  and  to 
pass  over  such  portions  of  the  country  as  they  should  find 
the  most  interesting.  This  was  done,  and  it  gives  me  great 
pleasure  to  bear  testimony  to  the  valuable  information 
obtained  of  these  interesting  countries.  They  all  joined 
me  again  at  the  Bay  of  Islands,  (with  but  one  exception.) 
3 


On  the  26tli  of  December,  1839,  we  left  the  harbor  of 
Sydney,  with  the  kind  wishes  of  its  inhabitants,  and 
parted  with  great  regret  from  our  second  home. 

Our  vessels  were  but  illy  adapted  for  the  service,  in 
the  opinion  of  many  of  our  friends,  and  we  were  not  a 
little  amused  at  our  visitors  inquiring  where  all  our  fix- 
tures and  preventatives  were  to  obviate  the  cold  climate, 
scurvy,  &c.,  &,c.  In  truth,  we  had  none  to  show,  but  a 
healthy  crew  and  cheerful  countenances. 

In  speaking  of  this  cruise  to  the  Antarctic,  it  will  be 
necessary  for  me  to  go  more  into  detail  than  I  intended, 
not  only  to  substantiate  our  country's  claim  to  the  dis- 
covery, but  in  consequence  of  the  unfounded  statement 
that  seems  to  have  been  made  by  Captain  Ross  to  a  com- 
mander in  our  navy,  and  given  currency  by  him,  viz : 
That  Captain  Ross  had  actually  run  over  a  part  of  the 
ocean  where  I  had  reported  the  existence  of  land. 

The  objects,  agreeably  to  my  instructions  on  this  cruise, 
were,  to  make  researches  and  endeavor  to  attain  as  high 
a  southern  latitude  as  possible,  between  the  longitudes  of 
160°  and  45°  east,  proceeding  from  east  to  west.  This 
was  the  substance  of  my  orders  given  to  the  different  ves- 
sels, and  to  rendezvous  at  106°  east,  along  the  icy  barrier, 
in  case  of  separation. 

From  my  first  year's  experience  among  the  ice,  I  had 
determined  to  leave  each  vessel,  on  our  arrival  at  the  icy 
barrier,  to  act  by  herself  until  the  appointed  rendezvous 
was  reached,  believing  it  was  impossible  for  us  to  act 
together  without  a  great  loss  of  time  and  opportunity  of 
making  researches,  and  that  it  would  inspire  all,  if  possi- 
ble, with  a  greater  degree  of  emulation,  considering  that 
a  separation  could  not  greatly  increase  the  hazard  of  the 
cruise. 


the  harbor  of 
habitants,  and 
lome. 

the  service,  in 
we  were  not  a 
ere  all  our  fix- 
i  cold  climate, 
to  show,  but  a 

ctic,  it  will  be 

m  I  intended, 

m  to  the  dis- 

ided  statement 

[loss  to  a  com- 

by  him,  viz : 

a  part  of  the 

of  land. 

on  this  cruise, 

attain  as  high 

i  longitudes  of 

0  west.    This 

!  different  ves- 

the  icy  barrier, 

the  ice,  I  had 
•ival  at  the  icy 
sd  rendezvous 
for  us  to  act 
opportunity  of 
re  all,  if  possi- 
tnsidering  that 
hazard  of  the 


On  the  second  January  we  lost  sight  of  the  Flying 
Fish,  and  on  the  3d  of  the  Peacock,  The  Vincennes 
and  Porpoise  made  the  icy  barrier  on  the  1  llh  January,  in 
latitude  64°  11'  S.,  longitude  164°  63'  E.,  and  separated  in 
a  fog  the  following  day.  The  Peacock  made  the  ice  on  the 
15th,  and  the  Flying  Fish  on  the  2l8t  January. 

The  discoloration  of  the  water  was  soon  perceived,  and 
seals  and  penguins  were  seen  in  numbers,  but  no  appear- 
ance of  land,  until  the  15th,  16th,  and  17th,  in  longitude 
160°  east,  and  latitude  66°  30'  soUth. 

The  Peacock,  Porpoise  and  Vincennes  all  agree  in  this, 
though  many  doubted  the  existence  of  land,  considering 
it  too  good  news  to  be  true. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th  January,  on  board  the 
Vincennes  and  Peacock,  land  was  ascertained  positively 
to  exist,  though  they  were  separated  several  miles. 

In  endeavoring  to  reach  the  land,  the  Peacock  met 
with  an  accident  on  the  24th  of  January,  obtaining  sound- 
ings the  day  before  in  320  fathoms  of  water ;  this  was  a 
blue  mud  and  coarse  gravel.  The  damage  met  with  was 
severe,  and  obliged  her  to  put  back  to  Sydney,  which  she 
was  fortunate  to  reach  on  the  21st of  February;  and  then 
on  examination  it  was  found  how  miraculous  had  been 
her  preservation— her  stem  having  been  ground  off  to 
within  one  and  a  half  inches  of  the  wood-ends.  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  good  conduct  of  her  commander,  officers, 
and  crew.  It  has  already  been  represented  to  the  Go- 
vernment, and  will  form  an  exceedingly  interesting  part 

of  our  narrative. 

The  Flying  Fish  bore  away  north  on  the  6th  February, 
having  encountered  severe  weather,  which  prevented  her 
remaining  longer. 

The  Vincennes  and  Porpoise  contmued  along  the  icy 


mmm^mmmmm 


f: 


(■ 


■  m 


1  I 


i  i 


20 

barrier  to  the  longitude  of  97°  east,  seeing  the  land,  and 
at  times  approaching  it  to  within  from  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  to  ten  miles,  when  the  icy  barrier  would  permit. 

On  the  29th  of  January  we  entered  what  I  have  called 
Piners  Bay,  the  only  place  where  we  could  have  landed 
on  the  naked  rocks.  We  were  driven  out  of  it  by  one 
of  the  sudden  gales  usual  in  those  seas.  We  got  sound- 
ings in  thirty  fathoms.  The  gale  lasted  thirty-six  hours, 
and  after  many  narrow  escapes,  I  found  myself  some  sixty 
miles  to  leeward  of  this  bay.  It  now  became  probable 
that  this  land  which  we  had  discovered  was  of  great  ex- 
tent, and  I  deemed  it  of  more  importance  to  follow  its 
trend  than  to  return  to  Piners  Bay  to  land,  not  doubting 
I  should  have  an  opportunity  of  landing  on  some  portion 
of  it  still  more  accessible  j  this,  however,  1  waft  disap- 
pointed in,  the  icy  barrier  preventing  our  approach,  and 
rendering  it  impossible  to  effect. 

Great  quantities  of  ice,  covered  with  mud,  rock,  and 
stone,  presented  themselves  at  the  edge  of  the  barrier,  in 
close  proximity  to  the  land ;  from  these  our  specimens 
were  obtained,  and  were  quite  as  numerous  as  could  have 
been  gathered  from  the  rocks  themselves.  The  land, 
covered  with  snow,  was  distinctly  seen  in  many  places, 
and  between  them  such  appearances  as  to  leave  little  or  no 
doubt  in  my  mind  of  its  being  a  continuous  line  of  coast, 
and  deserving  the  name  bestowed  upon  it,  of  the  Antarctic 
Continent,  lying  as  it  does  under  that  circle.  Many  phe- 
nomena were  observed  here,  and  observations  made, 
which  will  be  found  under  their  appropriate  head  in  the 
sequel 

On  reaching  97°  east  we  found  the  ice  trending  to  the 
northward;  and  continuing  to  follow  it  close,  we  reached 
to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  position  where  Cook  was 


,1. 


iiTirritiliMTiiiillllllilitliirtil mil  iiniliMMMtWi 


the  land,  and 

i-quarters  of  a 

Id  permit. 

I  have  called 

1  have  landed 

of  it  by  one 

/"e  got  sounds 

rty-six  hours, 

elf  some  sixty 

ame  probable 

i  of  great  ex- 

to  follow  its 

not  doubting 

some  portion 

1  was.  disap- 

pproach,  and 

id,  rock,  and 
;he  barrier,  in 
ur  specimens 
as  oould  have 
.  The  land, 
many  places, 
ive  little  or  no 
line  of  coast, 
the  Antarctic 
Many  phe- 
ations  made, 
i  head  in  the 

snding  to  the 
!,  we  reached 
e  Cook  was 


21 

stopped  by  the  barrier  in  1773.  It  will  be  satisfactory 
to  throw  some  light  upon  the  permanency  of  the  icy  bar- 
rier, and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  on  a  careful  examination  of 
dates  and  positions,  this  will  be  effected.  On  reachiu;^  this 
point  the  weather  became  stormy,  and  the  season  so  far 
advanced  that  I  deemed  it  would  be  losing  time  to  proceed 
farther  to  the  westward,  and,  therefore,  on  the  23d  of 
February,  I  bore  up  for  New  Zealand,  but  concluded 
afterwards  to  put  into  Sydney,  where  we  found  the  Pea- 
cock undergoing  repairs,  and  learned  that  accounts  had 
reached  Sydney  of  the  discovery  made  by  Bellamy,  an 
English  sealer,  just  to  the  eastward,  or  near  the  position 
where  we  had  struck  the  icy  barrier ;  this  was  in  166° 
east  longitude,  and  south  of  our  latitude. 

The  news  of  Captain  Ross  having  sailed  from  England, 
and  his  expected  arrival,  was  also  communicated  to  us. 
In  my  despatches  to  the  Government  I  informed  them 
that  the  discovery  was  made  on  the  19th  of  January, 
1840,  the  day  on  which  we  felt  confident  the  land  existed, 
in  154°  30'  east  longitude.  In  a  subsequent  despatch  from 
New  Zealand,  and  after  I  had  received  the  reports  from  all 
the  vessels,  with  my  own  observations,  I  found  we  could 
claim  the  discovery  of  land  as  far  east  as  160°  longitude, 
a  few  days  prior  to  the  19th,  which  I  accordingly  did. 

During  our  cruise,  as  we  sailed  along  the  icy  barrier, 
I  prepared  a  chart,  laying  down  the  land,  not  only  where 
we  had  actually  determined  it  to  exist,  but  those  places  in 
which  every  appearance  denoted  its  existence,  forming 
almost  a  continuous  line  from  160°  to  97°  east  longitude. 
I  had  a  tracing  copy  made  of  this  chart,  on  which  was  laid 
down  the  land  supposed  to  have  been  seen  by  Bellamy  in 
166° east;  which,  with  my  notes, experience,  &c.,  &,c.,was 
forwarded  to  Captain  Ross,  through  Sir  George  Gipps,  at 


is^§^^m£M:ii;*^i£»>:Aiifiiimiii!^ACiii^  ■ 


;  I 


II 


SS 

Sydney  ;  ami  I  was  aflerwarils  intbrmcd  was  received  by 
Captain  Uos8,on  his  arrival  at  llobart  Town^  some  months 
previous  to  his  going  south.     The  following  is  a  copy  : 

U.  S.  FuAO  Ship  Vincennes,  New  Zealand,      ^ 
Bay  or  Islands,  5th  April,  IS'lO.  5 

My  Dear  Sir:  I  need  not  tell  you  how  much  I  feel  interested 
in  your  cruise.  From  the  interest  you  took  in  the  outfit  of  our  expo* 
dition,  1  am  sure  you  well  know  the  interest  it  excites,  and  how 
much  this  feeling  is  heightened  by  a  knowledge  on  my  part  of  what 
you  have  undertaken,  and  havo  to  go  through.  This  prompts  mo 
to  a  desire  to  be  useful  to  you  if  possible,  and  to  give  you  my  expe- 
rience of  the  last  season  among  the  ice,  whither  you  are  bound. 

Your  cruiso  will  be  an  arduous  one,  no  matter  how  you  may  be 
enlightened  on  your  course ;  but  you  have  so  much  knowledge  of  the 
ice,  and  the  manner  of  treating  it,  that  it  appears  almost  presumptu- 
ous in  me  to  sit  down  to  give  you  any  hints  relative  to  it.  Dut,  be- 
lieving as  I  do,  that  the  ice  of  the  Antarctic  is  of  a  totally  different 
character  from  that  of  the  Arctic,  I  venture  to  offer  you  a  few  hints 
that  may  be  useful  to  you  in  your  undertaking ;  and  although  my  in- 
structions are  binding  upon  me  relative  to  discoveries,  I  am,  never- 
theless aware  that  I  am  acting  as  my  Government  would  order,  if  they 
could  have  anticipated  the  case,  knowing  how  deeply  it  feels  the 
liberal  dsbistance  and  great  interest  evinced  by  all  the  societies  and 
distinguished  men  of  Great  Britain,  to  promote  and  aid  this,  our  first 
undertaking  in  the  great  cause  of  science  and  usefulness  ;  and  I  must 
add  the  pleasure  it  gives  to  me  personally,  to  be  able  to  return, 
though  in  a  small  degree,  the  great  obligation  I  myself  feel  under  to 
you,  and  many  others,  the  promoters  of  your  undertaking. 

Winds. — ^The  winds  for  the  first  fortnight  of  our  time,  to  the  east- 
ward of  140°  east  longitude,  were  from  the  northward  and  westward, 
light  generally,  accompanied  occasionally  with  clear  weather  for 
hours,  and  again  with  dense  fogs  of  short  duration,  with  a  long  swell 
from  the  same  quarter. 

After  passing  140°  east,  or  to  the  westward  of  it,  we  experienced 
fine  weather,  with  southeast  winds  and  occasional  snow  squalls,  lasting 
but  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  and  a  dry  healthy  atmosphere. 


i  Wfi^ms 


received  by 
some  months 
is  a  copy : 

ALAND,        ^ 

ril,  1810.  5 
foci  interested 
fit  of  our  oxpo> 
cites,  and  liow 
ly  part  of  wliat 
lis  prompts  mo 
I  you  my  expe- 
ire  bound. 
)W  j'ou  may  be 
lowledge  of  the 
lost  presumptu- 
to  it.  But,  be- 
totally  different 
)'ou  a  few  hints 
ilthough  my  in- 
,  I  am,  never- 
Id  order,  if  they 
iply  it  feels  the 
be  societies  and 
id  this,  our  first 
)ss  ;  and  I  must 
able  to  return, 
If  feel  under  to 
king. 

me,  to  the  east- 
I  and  westward, 
ar  weather  for 
ith  a  long  swell 

(ve  experienced 
r  squalls,  lasting 
ere. 


23 

The  haromctor,  during  our  stny  on  ihe  const,  was  always  indica 
live  of  wind  by  its  depression,  oiul  mn  a  true  guide.  Its  mean  stand- 
ing was  28  inch.  The  tem|    'nturo  surpn^od  me;  we  seldom,  if  over, 
had  it  above  30<^,  oven  in  the  sun  at  mid-day,  and  I  do  not  think  that 
three  times  it  was  found  above  30^. 

Gales  come  on  very  suddenly,  and  are  always  attended  with  snow, 
sleet,  and  thick  fogs,  rendering  it  extremely  hazardous  ;  for  one  must 
be  found,  when  they  do  come,  more  or  less  surrounded  with  ice 
islands.  They  sometimes  last  for  thirty-six  hours.  After  they  set 
in  you  may  calculate  that  they  will  blow  strong  for  at  least  half  that 
time.  The  nearer  you  are  to  the  land  the  more  violent  they  are, 
though  not  of  such  long  duration.  Fine  weather  usually  precedes 
them,  and  we  found  them  to  happen,  and  the  weather  to  be  more 
changeable  near  the  full  and  change,  although  I  am  no  believer  in 
the  lunar  influences  upon  the  weather. 

Currents.— During  the  whole  of  our  stay  along  the  icy  coast, 
we  found  no  perceptible  current  by  the  reckoning  and  current  log. 
During  a  gale  of  wind  I  was  induced  to  believe  that  some  existed, 
from  the  short  sea  that  was  formed,  thinking  there  was  more  than 
was  to  be  expected.  THdes  on  such  an  extent  of  coast  there  un- 
doubtedly must  be,  but  of  little  strength,  or  we  should  have  per- 
ceived them. 

In  many  of  the  icy  bays  we  were  stationary  for  a  sufficient  time  to 
perceive  them  if  they  had  been  of  any  magnitude,  and  where  the 
current  was  repeatedly  tried. 

The  winds  have  their  effect  upon  the  loose  drift  ice,  or  that  which 
is  detached  from  the  icy  barrier.  From  a  change  of  wind  from  south- 
east to  north,  with  a  fresh  breeze,  the  Peacock  became  embayed, 
and  the  ice  forced  in  upon  her,  which  brought  about  her  accident. 
The  northerly  wind',  are  always  accompanied  with  a  heavy  swell,  and 
her  escape  was  a  miracle,  combined  with  good  seamanship  and  per- 
severance. If  Captain  Hudson's  ship  had  been  as  strong  as  adamant 
itself,  he  is  of  opinion  she  would  have  been  ground  to  atoms  by  a 
longer  exposure ;  her  stem  suffertd  to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of 
the  wood-ends. 

There  are  places  in  which  the  barrier  is  within  the  floe  ice  several 
miles.  I  enclose  you  the  mean  temperature  during  the  summer 
months. 


■mwiroiiffiii'iiiiiiii^^ 


■:''j<t"r-' .;.  v-irxE-i'  ^ 


24 


1 1 


You  will  see  there  is  but  little  chance  of  the  ice  melting  or  disap- 
pearing, as  from  accounts  frequently  takes  place  in  the  Arctic  Ocean. 
Your  time  being  unlimited  will  allow  you  to  wait  some  day»  in  a 
situation  to  make  experiments. 

1  frequently  found  myself  so  closely  beset  that  I  thought  it  next  to 
impossible  to  ascape,  and  if  the  wind  had  not  been  extremely  con- 
stant in  its  direction,  I  should  have  been  shut  up  or  much  injured  ; 
as  it  was  I  escaped  with  scarcely  a  scratch,  although  we  took  some 
heavy  thumps. 

The  chart  will  show  you  the  tracks  and  state  of  the  ice.  It  was 
constructed  as  I  went  on,  and  the  ice  islands  laid  down  by  carefully 
kept  diagrams  by  the  officer  of  the  deck  during  his  watch.  This  I 
found  gave  me  more  confidence  in  proceeding,  and  facilities  in  case  of 
having  to  return. 

Magnetic  Pole. — I  consider  we  have  approached  very  near  to 
the  pole.  Our  dip  was  67°  30'  south,  and  the  compasses  on  the 
ice  very  sluggish  ;  this  was  in  147°  SC  east  and  67°  04'  south.  Our 
variation,  as  accurately  as  it  could  be  observed  on  the  ice,  we  made 
12°  30'  east.  It  was  diffkult  to  get  a  good  observation,  on  account 
of  the  sluggishness  of  our  compasses.  About  one  hundred  miles  to 
the  westward  we  crossed  the  magnetic  meridian. 

The  pole,  without  giving  you  accurate  deductions,  I  think  my  ob- 
servations will  place  in  about  70°  south  latitude  and  140°  east  lon- 
gitude. 

.  On  the  meridian  of  140°  east  you  will  find  a  small  bay,  partly 
formed  by  ice  islands  and  rocks,  which  I  have  named  Piners  Bay, 
and  1  think  among  the  rocks  you  may  find  a  snug  little  harbor.  I 
was  driven  out  of  the  bay  by  a  gale  of  wind,  sounding  about  one  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  shore  in  thirty  fathoms.  The  icebergs  being 
aground  form  good  shelters;  but  1  was  too  much  exposed  to  venture 
to  remain ;  and  my  object  was  to  trace  the  land  and  the  icy  barrier, 
which  I  have  done,  as  you  will  see  it  laid  down  on  my  chart. 

We  had  delightful  and  clear  weather  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  along 
the  coast,  with  the  wind  at  from  southeast  to  south  southwest ;  the 
two  latter  points  particularly.  The  drift  ice  is  in  large  pieces,  so  large 
as  to  give  a  ship  an  awkward  thump ;  but  when  I  found  it  tolerably 
open  I  have  run  through  it  to  get  to  clear  water,  and  in  hopes  of  making 


ijt 


25 


leltlng  or  disap- 

e  Arctic  Ocean. 

some  day»  in  a 

ought  it  next  to 

extremely  con- 

'  much  injured ; 

h  we  took  some 

the  ice.  It  was 
»wn  by  carefully 
watch.  This  I 
cilities  in  case  of 

led  very  near  to 
m  passes  on  the 
04'  south.  Our 
he  ice,  we  made 
tioD,  en  account 
lundred  miles  to 

,  I  think  my  ob- 
i  HOP  east  lon- 

tiall  bay,  partly 
led  Piners  Bay, 
little  harbor.  I 
ig  about  one  and 
B  icebergs  being 
posed  to  venture 
1  the  icy  barrier, 
my  chart, 
a  fortnight  along 
southwest;  the 
e  pieces,  so  large 
bund  it  tolerably 
I  hopes  of  making 


the  land,  but  our  progress  was  soon  stopped  by  the  firm  barrier,  im- 
penetrable, through  which  there  is  no  passing. 

I  am  of  opinion  that  there  is  little  movement  of  the  ice  during  the 
season.  Strong  gales  may  change  its  position  a  little,  but  I  think 
not  materially. 

The  only  prospect  of  nearing  the  land  is  through  a  sea  well  studded 
with  large  icebergs,  nearly  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  width ;  and  I  gen- 
erally found  that  we  got  nearer  to  the  shore  in  those  places  than  else- 
where. One  thing  I  must  tell  you,  as  respects  filling  your  water.  You 
will  sometimes  find  a  pond  of  delicious  water  on  the  top  of  an  old 
iceberg,  frozen  over,  but  on  cutting  through  it  you  will  get  a  supply 
sufficient  for  a  navy.  It  will  save  you  fuel,  and  discomfort  and  cold 
to  you,  your  vessels,  and  their  crews. 

I  was  very  fortunate  in  the  weather  the  latter  part  of  the  time ;  and 
indeed  altogether  I  was  scarcely  a  day  without  some  observation, 
(except  during  the  gales,  of  which  we  had  three,  occupying  about 
eight  days,)  and  generally  half  a  dozen. 

My  time  for  six  weeks  was  passed  on  deck,  and  having  aH  day 
light,  I,  of  course,  had  constant  employment,  and  with  the  many  as- 
sistants, I  could  make  rapid  progress ;  and  you  will  find  that  no  op- 
portunity ought  to  be  lost  in  thisnavigation,  if  one  is  to  do  any  thing. 
One's  ship  is  in  constant  danger,  and  the  Vincennes,  a  first  class 
sloop  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty  tons,  it  requires  all  the  foresight 
and  activity  one  is  possessed  of  to  look  out  for  her. 

I  consider  that  I  have  had  a  most  providential  escape,  and  if  this  ship 
had  not  been  enabled  to  do  every  thing  but  talk,  I  should  not  have 
been  where  I  now  am ;  but  she  had  inspired  me  with  so  much  confi- 
dence, among  the  coral  reefs  last  summer,  that  I  could  put  faith  in 
her  doing  her  duty.  I  must  refer  you  to  the  chart,  on  which  I  have 
noted  remarks,  variations,  &:c.,  &c. 

I  should  have  mentioned  that  in  1838  and  1839  I  went  south  in 
the  brig  Porpoise,  in  order  to  trace  Palmer's  Land  on  its  eastern 
side,  (but  too  late  for  any  trial  to  reach  high  latitudes,)  and  hoping 
that  the  lateness  of  the  season  would  enable  me  to  run  some  distance 
along  it.  I  got  within  three  miles  of  the  coast,  and  saw  it  trending  to 
the  south-southeast  about  thirty  miles;  but  it  was  so  blocked  up  with 
ice  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  get  through.  I  have  little  doubt 
4 


26 


■  I 


myself,  in  favorable  seasons,  Weddel's  track  may  be  followed,  not- 
withstanding what  the  Frenchman  may  say,  there  being  no  land  to 
which  the  ice  is  attached ;  and  that  the  ice  in  those  parts  changes 
very  much,  the  currents  being  exceedingly  strong,  as  I  myself  wit- 
nessed. I  could  not  afford  the  time  to  be  frozen  up,  as  my  other 
duties  were,  and  are  paramount  to  passing  the  winter  in  such  a  situa- 
tion. But  you  are  differently  situated,  and  I  should  advise  you,  by  all 
means,  to  try  to  penetrate  between  35°  and  45°  west  longitude. 
I  am,  &CC.,  &cc., 

CHARLES  WILKES, 

Comd'g  Exp'g  Expd'n. 
To  Capt.  Jaues  C.  Ross, 

Commanding  H.  B.  M.  ships  Erebus  and  Terror. 

As  I  before  remarked,  on  my  original  chart  I  had  laid 
down  the  supposed  position  of  Bellamy's  Islands  or  land  in 
164°  and  165°  east  longitude,  and  that  it  was  traced  off  and 
sent<o  Capt.  Ross.  I  am  not  a  little  surprised  that  so  in- 
telligent a  navigator  as  Capt.  Ross,  on  finding  that  he  had 
run  over  this  position,  should  not  have  closely  inquired  into 
the  statements  relative  to  our  discoveries  that  had  been 
published  in  the  Sydney  and  Hobart  Town  papers,  which 
he  must  have  seen,  and  have  induced  him  to  made  a  care- 
ful examination  of  the  tracks  of  the  squadron,  laid  down 
on  the  chart  sent  him,  by  which  he  would  4iave  assured 
himself  in  a  few  moments  that  it  had  never  been  laid  down 
or  claimed  as  part  of  our  discovery,  before  he  made  so 
bold  an  assertion  to  an  American  officer,  that  he  had  run 
over  a  clear  ocean  where  I  had  laid  down  the  land.  And 
I  am  not  less  surprised  that  that  officer  should  have  tfdcen 
it  for  granted,  without  examination,  that  such  was  the  fact. 

On  reference  to  Captain  Ross's  chart  and  track,  it  will 
be  seen  he  has  not  approached  near  enough  our  positions, 
either  to  determine  errors  or  verify  results.  I  am  very  far 
from  imputing  to  Captain  Ross  any  intentional  misreprc- 


MMMi 


jjaaMifcii  i»Ti-  mnimMmvii  imri" 


27 


;  followed,  not- 
icing no  land  to 
i  parts  changes 
as  I  myself  wit- 
jp,  as  my  other 
in  such  a  situa- 
dviseyou,by  all 
3t  longitude. 

KES, 

xp^g  Expd'n. 

trror. 

art  I  had  laid 
ndsorlandin 
traced  off  and 
ed  that  so  in- 
tg  that  he  had 
inquired  into 
lat  had  been 
sapers,  which 
made  a  care- 
en, laid  down 
ha.\e  assured 
een  laid  down 
I  he  made  so 
^t  he  had  run 
le  land.  And 
Id  have  tftken 
i  was  the  fact. 
[  track,  it  will 
our  positions, 
I  am  very  far 
nal  misrepre- 


sentation, nor  had  I  any  right,  to  expect  that  the  track 
of  the  expedition,  and  its  discoveries,  should  have  been 
laid  down  on  his  chart ;  but  it  would  seem  somewhat  un- 
usual that  the  discoveries  of  others  (though  of  much  less 
importance)  should  be  represented,  whilst  those  of  the 
American  expedition  were  omitted,  when  it  is  known  that 
he  was  in  possession  of  our  operations  more  fu!ly  than  those 
of  others. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  occurrences  of  this  cruise, 
was  the  meeting  with  the  French  discovery  ships  on  the 
icy  coast,  and  their  commander  refusing  to  have  any  com- 
munication with  us. 

On  the  30th  of  January  the  Porpoise  discovered  two 
ships,  which  her  commander  at  first  took  for  the  Vincennes 
and  Peacock.  This  was  soon  four,  i  not  to  be  the  case,  by 
their  hoisting  French  colors.  The  brig  being  to  windward, 
bore  down  with  the  intention  of  speaking  and  passing  the 
usual  salutation  to  the  one  wearing  a  broad  pendant.  On 
a  near  approach,  and  just  within  hail,  the  commodore's 
ship  made  sail  and  refused  all  intercourse.  This  remark- 
able circumstance  of  two  national  expeditions  meeting  in 
this  entirely  unfrequented  sea,  with  avowedly  the  same 
objects  in  view,  is  not  mentioned  in  the  French  official 
account.     Comment  is  unnecessary. 

From  Sydney  the  Vincennes  proceeded  to  New  Zea- 
land, the  rendezvous  that  had  been  appointed  for  the 
squadron ;  the  Peacock  being  ordered  to  join,  after  the 
repairs  were,  completed,  at  the  Islands  of  Tongataboo, 
(Friendly  Islands.)  On  our  arrival  at  the  Bay  of  Islands, 
New  Zealand,  we  were  rejoiced  to  find  that  the  Porpoise 
and  Flying  Fish  had  already  arrived,  all  well.  Here  I  was 
again  joined  by  the  scientific  gentlemen,  and  after  recruit- 
ing for  a  week  and  making  the  usual  observations,  we  left 


i 


I  r 


28 


m 


for  the  Friendly  Islands.  On  our  way  we  passed  by  the 
Kermadec  Group,  and  on  the  24th  of  April  arrived  at  Ton- 
gataboo.  Here  we  were  engaged  in  surveys  and  obser- 
vations, and  many  specimens  of  natural  history  were 
obtained,  although  our  limits  were  much  circumscribed  in 
consequence  of  the  war  raging  between  the  Christian  and 
Devil's  party.  All  my  endeavors  to  effect  a  reconcilia- 
tion proved  unsuccessful. 

The  day  before  sailing,  the  2d  of  May,  the  Peacock 
joined  us,  when  we  left  for  the  Fiji  Islands.  On  the  6th, 
we  made  Turtle  Island.  The  day  after,  the  Porpoise 
was  left  off  the  Island  of  Ongea,  to  survey  the  eastern 
range  of  islands  and  reefs.  The  Vincennes,  Peacock,  and 
Flying  Fish  proceeded  to  enter  the  group.  On  the  9th 
of  May  we  anchored  at  the  Island  of  Ovelou,  in  the  har- 
bor of  Lebouka.  The  boats  were  fitted  out  and  survey- 
ing parties  organized.  Many  precautions  were  taken, 
and  orders  given  to  prevent  accident  from  the  treachery 
of  the  natives.  The  Flying  Fish  was  despatched  to 
meet  the  Porpoise  at  Lakemba,  with  further  instructions, 
and  to  give  her  pilots,  &c.  The  Peacock  passed  round 
to  Rewa  with  the  scientific  gentlemen,  continuing  the 
surveying  duties,  in  her  boats,  off  the  Western  Group. 
The  Vincennes  remained  at  Ovelou,  where  the  observa- 
tory was  established,  her  boats  being  sent  on  surveymg 
duties.  Full  astronomical,  magnetical,  and  meteorologi- 
cal observations  were  made.  After  these  were  finished, 
the  Vincennes  went  over  to  the  larger  Island  of  Venua 
Levu,  to  examine  the  Bay  of  Sabu  Sabu,  and  *feit  the 
Hot  springs  there,  and  thence  to  Sandal  Wood  Bay,  where 
the  Peacock  was  again  fallen  in  with.  Communication 
was  had  with  the  Porpoise  by  the  Flying  Fish,  and  ad- 
vantage taken  of  her  passing  to  and  fro  among  the  group. 


if' 


mmm 


)assed  by  the 
rived  at  Ton- 
s  and  obser- 
history  were 
umscribed  in 
christian  and 
a  reconcilia- 

the  Peacock 

On  the  6th, 
he  Porpoise 

the  eastern 
*eacock,  and 

On  the  9th 
I,  in  the  har- 

and  survey- 
were  taken, 
le  treachery 
ispatched  to 
instructions, 
tassed  round 
itinuing  the 
tern  Group, 
the  observa- 
n  surveying 
neteorologi- 
ire  finished, 
d  of  Venua 
nd  viisit  the 
Bay,  where 
amunication 
ish,  and  ad- 
5  the  group, 


29 


to  carry  a  series  of  meridian  distances,  and  latitude  obser- 
vations throughout,  observing  on,  and  connecting  the 
island  by  triangulation.  The  boats  were  at  the  same  time 
tracing  and  surveying  the  reefs. 

By  the  11th  of  August  our  duties  among  this  group 
were  finished.  During  which  time  the  whole  had  been 
surveyed,  consisting  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  islands 
and  fifty  detached  reefs,  and  the  numerous  harbors  sur- 
veyed and  sounded  out.  You  have  already  been  informed 
of  the  distressing  event  which  closed  our  labors  here — 
the  massacre  of  our  two  young  oflicers,  Lt.  J.  A.  Under- 
wood and  Mid.  Wilkes  Henry,  and  may  readily  imagine  the 
gloom  it  threw  over  us.  This,  I  feel,  is  not  the  place  to 
enter  into  any  details  respecting  it,  or  of  this  group.  It  will 
be  sufficient  to  inform  you  that  every  exertion  was  made 
both  by  the  officers,,  scientific  gentlemen,  and  crews,  to 
obtain  accurate  results  and  information  useful  to  our  whal- 
ing interests,  navigation,  and  scientific  departments ;  in 
which  we  succeeded  to  my  fullest  gratification  and  antici- 
pation. Our  collections  were  extensive,  and  many  things 
acquired  which  we  believe  are  quite  new.  A  full  account 
of  these  islands  may  be  expected,  embracing  their  habits, 
manners,  and  customs,  &c.  The  general  chart  was  exhi- 
bited to  you,  together  with  those  of  many  of  the  islands  and 
harbors;  which  will  give  you  some  idea  of  our  work.  It 
would  be  as  well  to  mention  that  the  hydrographical  part 
of  this  expedition  has  been  for  the  most  part  plotted  before 
leaving  the  locality.  A  field  has  been  opened  for  our 
whale  fishery  of  some  extent  among  these  islands. 

The  harbor  of  Lebouka,  in  the  Island  of  Ovelou,  being 
well  adapted  as  a  place  of  resort  for  our  ships,  was  select- 
ed, agreeably  to  my  instructions,  a  garden  planted  and 
placed  under  the  care  of  a  respectable  American  resident 


I 


! 


! 


I 


* 


}    : 


iiiiiiiiiiwifiiMi 


;  I 
I  I 


^"4 


I  if 


30 

there,  and  every  endeavor  made  to  cultivate  a  friendship 
and  good  understanding  with  the  natives,  in  which  I  had 
many  proofs  of  having  been  successful.  During  our  ope- 
rations here,  it  was  gratifying  to  meet  with  two  English 
surveying  vessels,  under  Captain  Belcher,  and  to  supply 
his  wants,  viz :  a  set  of  rudder  pintals.  In  entering  the 
harbor  of  Rewa  he  had  knocked  off  his  rudder,  and  bro- 
ken them,  by  getting  on  a  coral  reef. 

I  was  happy  to  have  it  in  my  power  to  compare  my  in- 
tensity needles  with  those  of  Captain  Belcher,  which  will 
in  part  secure  my  results  in  magnetism,  in  case  my  needles 
have  not  been  permanent.  Just  before  leaving  this  group, 
intelligence  was  received  of  the  wreck  of  a  whale  ship  on 
the  reefs  near  Turtle  Island.  The  Porpoise  was  despatch- 
ed to  the  relief  of  her  crew,  and  to  call  at  Vavao,  the  north- 
ern island  of  the  Friendly  Group ;  thence  to  the  Naviga- 
tor's and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  Flying  Fish  was 
left  for  a  few  days  to  examine  an  outlying  reef.  The  Vin- 
cennes  and  Peacock  stood  north,  on  their  route  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  with  the  intention  of  passing  over  the 
doubtful  islands  and  reefs  said  to  exist  in  our  route. 
Many  of  these  positions  were  run  over,  some  of  them 
found,  and  others  that  were  not  known,  discovered. 

The  port  of  Honolulu,  in  the  Island  of  Oahu,  (Sandwich 
Islands,)  was  reached  the  beginning  of  October.  Here 
we  were  received  with  the  utmost  kindness  by  our  coun- 
trymen and  the  authorities.  The  Governor  placed  at  my 
disposal  one  of  the  houses  belonging  to  the  King,  and  the 
adjoining  premises,  which  I  found  admirably  adapted  to 
my  purposes.  After  a  few  days  relaxation  the  usual  duties 
were  resumed,  and  a  full  series  of  pendulum  observa- 
tions, besides  those  for  astronomy,  magnetism,  and  meteo- 
rology were  observed.     A  part  of  the  officers  were  em- 


i,   . 


liiaiW'irMmiiiiiH-'iWwiwaiiiiime 


^^m 


a  friendship 
which  I  had 
ing  our  ope- 
two  English 
id  to  supply 
entering  the 
ier,  and  bro- 

npare  my  in- 
iTf  which  will 
le  my  needles 
g  this  group, 
rhale  ship  on 
ras  despatch- 
lo,  the  north- 

the  Naviga- 
ing  Fish  was 
if.   TheVin- 

route  to  the 
ing  over  the 
I  our  route, 
•me  of  them 
overed. 
I,  (Sandwich 
ober.  Here 
i)y  our  coun- 
placed  at  my 
[ing,  and  the 
r  adapted  to 
!  usual  duties 
jm  observa- 
,  and  meteo- 
rs were  em- 


31 

ployed  in  bringing  up  the  work  of  our  charts,  and  others 
were  engaged  in  making  the  surveys  of  the  islands,  and 
the  scientific  corps  in  explorations  in  botany,  zoology, 
geology,  &c.  A  party  was  sent  in  the  Flying  Fish  to 
the  other  islands.  Several  harbors  were  surveyed  at  the 
desire  of  the  King.  It  is  not  possible  to  give  an  idea  of 
the  extent  of  these  explorations  in  this  synopsis. 

After  an  intimate  intercouse^  not  only  with  the  mis- 
sionaries, but  the  Government  and  people,  it  gave  me  great 
pleasure  to  be  informed  on  our  last  short  visit,  that  no 
circumstance  had  occured,  either  among  the  officers  or 
men,  to  mar  the  pleasing  recollection  of  our  intercourse 
with  them. 

The  crews'  time  having  now  expired,  they  were  reship- 
ped  for  eighteen  months  longer,  in  order  to  enable  me  to 
carry  out  the  remaining  part  of  my  instructions. 

As  it  was  fruitless  to  attempt  our  operations  on  the 
North  West  Coast  at  this  late  season  of  the  year,  I  deter- 
mined to  employ  the  squadron  in  making  some  necessary 
examinations  for  the  advantage  of  our  navigation  and 
scientific  results,  which  were  not  included  in  my  instruc- 
tions, previous  to  going  upon  the  coast  of  America. 

The  Peacock  and  Flying  Fish  were  despatched  about 
the  beginning  of  December,  on  a  cruise  towards  the  Navi- 
gator's Group,  in  order  to  survey  and  examine  the  south 
side  of  the  Island  of  Upolu,  with  which  I  felt  dissatis- 
fied, and  also  to  inquire  into  the  murder  of  an  American 
sailor  there  a  few  months  before,  accounts  of  which  had 
been  forwarded  to  me  by  our  Consul,  resident  there ; 
thence  to  proceed  to  EUice's,  Deneyster's,  the  King's  Mills 
Group,  and  to  Strong's  and  Ascension  Island,  in  order  to 
search  for  the  wreck,  captain,  and  crew  of  the  brig  Wa- 
verly,  and  also  for  Captains  Carteret,  Dorsett,  and  others. 


II 


32 


M' 


ill 


who  had  been  cut  off,  as  was  supposed,  at  the  Piscadores ; 
thence  to  pursue  a  route  through  the  reefs  supposed  to 
exist  in  the  direction  towards  the  North  West  Coast, 
where  she  was  to  arrive  prior  to  the  first  of  May.  The 
greater  part  of  these  instructions  were  executed. 

The  Porpoise  was  despatched  about  the  same  time  to 
the  Pomoutou  Group,  or  Low  Archipelago,  to  examine 
and  look  up  several  of  the  islands  that  were  doubtful. 
A  party  was  to  be  landed  with  the  boring  apparatus  for  a 
month  on  one  of  the  Coral  Islands,  to  bore  through  the 
coral,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  substratum; 
thence  to  Tahiti,  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  our  trade, 
&c.,  &c.;  and  from  thence,  by  the  Flint  and  Penrhyn 
Islands,  to  Oahu.  These  instructions  were  carried  into 
effect.  She  returned  to  Oahu  the  latter  part  of  the  month 
of  March.  The  Vincennes  left  Oahu  the  3d  December  for 
Hawaii,  for  the  purpose  of  enabling  me  to  make  the  pen- 
dulum experiments  on  the  summit  of  Monwa  Loa,  between 
thirteen  and  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  investigate  its  volcanoes  and  their  irruptions,  and 
if  my  time  would  admit,  afterwards  to  visit  the  Marquese 
Islands,  and  some  of  the  reefs  in  the  route  towards  and 
from  them,  previous  to  my  return  to  Oahu  in  the  latter  part 
of  March.  The  visit  to  Hawaii  was  made,  the  mountain 
ascended,  and  three  weeks  passed  on  its  sumlnit  at  the 
edge  of  its  terminal  crater,  the  pendulum  experiments 
made,  and  surveys  and  topographical  drawings  of  its  cra- 
ters, and  the  southeast  portions  of  the  island  mapped,  in- 
cluding its  line  of  pit  and  conical  craters,  and  the  late 
irruption,  and  flow  into  the  sea  at  Nanawale.  On  my 
return  to  Hilo,  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  my  obser- 
vatory had  been  established  previous  to  our  ascending  the 
mountain,  I  endeavored  to  make  the  pendulum  experi- 


I    ',11 


II 


iwiii iiiiiiiiiiimiiiiKwi 


*»- 


m^ 


:-*<ft';V».-(#f-- 


!  Piscadores ; 
I  supposed  to 
West  Coast, 
May.  The 
nted. 

same  time  to 
,  to  examine 
jre  doubtful, 
iparatus  for  a 
:  through  the 
substratum ; 
of  our  trade, 
ind  Penrhyn 
carried  into 
of  the  month 
December  for 
lake  the  pen- 
Loa,  between 
le  level  of  the 
ruptions,  and 
he  Marquese 
towards  and 
he  latter  part 
the  mountain 
umlnit  at  the 
experiments 
igs  of  its  era- 
mapped,  in- 
and  the  late 
ale.  On  my 
ere  my  obeer- 
iscending  the 
ilum  experi- 


33 

ments,  but  found  all  my  endeavors  fruitless,  from  some 
unknown  cause.    I  removed  the  whole  to  the  opposite  side 
of  the  bay ;  but  still  was  annoyed  and  worried,  from  being 
prevented  getting  satisfactory  results.   On  close  attention, 
i  was  led  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  from  the  tremulous 
motion  of  the  ground  caused  by  the  surf  beating  on  the 
shore.     I  therefore  made  n  third  move  about  half  a  mile 
inland,  and  to  my  grer.i.  delight  found  my  results  such  as 
the  most  scrupulous  could  desire.     All  this  caused  me 
great  delay,  and  prevented  my  proceeding  to  the  Mar- 
quese Islands.   I  then  determined  to  spend  the  remaining 
portion  of  my  time  at  the  other  islands  of  this  group. 
And  accordingly  on  the  4th  of  March  sailed  for  Maui, 
anchoring  the  next  day  at  Lahaina,  the  residence  of  the 
King.     Here,  at  the  desire  of  his  majesty,  I  sent  out  a 
surveying  party  in  two  boats,  to  examine  a  shoal  off  the 
southwest  end  of  Kadawlawe,  in  which  duty  one  of  the 
boats  foundered.    No  lives  were  lost,  principally  in  conse- 
quence of  the  good  conduct  of  the  officers  in  charge  of 
them,  Lieutenant  Budd  and  Passed  Midshipman  May. 
This  duty  was  afterwards  performed  by  the  ship  and  boats, 
and  it  proved  to  be  a  far  less  dangerous  shoal  than  had 
been  represented.   A  week  was  spent  at  Lahaina,  during 
which  time  the  affairs  of  this  island  and  its  government 
occupied  much  of  my  attention,  and  I  need  not  say  it  was 
truly  gratifying  to  see  the  endeavors  making  by  this  peo- 
ple to  emerge  from  their  barbarism.    Great  credit  is  due 
to  the  gentleman  (the  Reverend  Mr.  Richards)  who  is  the 
adviser  of  this  Government,  for  his  persevering  efforts  to 
inculcate  those  principles  that  are  alone  calculated  to  im- 
prove and  foster  their  institutions,  that  the  liberality  of  our 
countrymen  have  been  the  means  of  founding,  under  the 
care  of  the  missionaries.   Hereafter,  this  part  of  our  inves- 
5 


Kwn^siFrits^iEW?" 


31  ■' 


\  t  «; 


!    1 


ligations  it  will  be  my  iluly  to  give;  and  I  trust  I  shall 
meet  it  with  a  mind  free  from  those  prejudices  that  ap- 
parently have  had  their  influence  upon  those  who  have 
gone  before  us.  Although  there  may  be  some  things  that 
cannot  fully  be  approved  of,  yet  justice  requires  me  to 
state  here,  that  as  far  as  my  experience  goes,  relative  to 
missionaries,  I  do  not  believe  there  exists  a  set  of  men 
more  devoted  to  their  duties  than  they  are,  or  any  em- 
ployment that  requires  more  true  courage,  penseverance, 
and  resignation,  and  in  which  greater  denials  are  met 
with,  and  difficulties  to  be  overcome.  This  includes  all 
sects,  and  the  good  they  are  doing  is  incalculable,  not  only 
in  carrying  the  gospel  among  the  natives  but  in  intro- 
ducing the  arts  of  civilization.  Few  plactis  :'re  to  be  found 
in  civilized  countries  where  the  progress  of  education  is 
making  more  rapid  strides  than  in  some  of  the  islands 
under  their  superintendence. 

This  island  was  examined,  together  with  its  roadsted, 
at  Lahaina,  and  the  intercourse  had  with  the  Government 
most  satisfactory.  On  the  17th  we  sailed,  and  the  follow- 
ing day  arrived  again  at  Oahi\  Here  the  Porpoise  shortly 
after  joined  us.  We  replenished  our  stores  and  shipped 
a  quantity  to  the  Columbia  River,  by  the  brig  Wave,  to 
supply  our  future  wants,  and  sailed  on  the  6th  of  April, 
1841.  On  the  27th,  we  arrived  off  the  bar,  but  found  it 
quite  impassible,  the  sea  breaking  high  all  across  it.  In 
order  to  lose  no  time,  I  put  away  for  the  Straits  of  Juan 
de  Fuca,  and  entered  them  on  the  second  day,  passing 
into  the  Discovery  harbor  of  Vancouver.  After  a  short 
stay,  we  proceeded  up  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  Puget's  Sound 
to  Nisqually.  Here  the  Vincennes  was  moored,  and  boat 
expeditions  were  fitted  out  to  survey  these  inland  sounds; 
the  Porpoise   proceeding  with  two  of  the  Vincennes' 


f 


^^jaHaiMitaMH 


(rust  I  shall 
CCS  that  ap- 
e  who  have 
e  things  that 
}uires  me  to 
3,  relative  to 
I  set  of  men 

or  any  em- 
lepseverance, 
iais  are  met 

includes  all 
ible^  not  only 
)ut  in  intro- 
Q  to  be  found 
education  is 
'  the  islands 

its  roadsted> 
Government 
d  the  foUow- 
poise  shortly 
and  shipped 
ig  Wave,  to 
ith  of  April, 
but  found  it 
cross  it.  In 
aits  of  Juan 
day,  passing 
ifter  a  short 
iget's  Sound 
3d,  and  boat 
and  sounds; 
Vincennes' 


3r) 

boats  to  survey  the  northern  portions  of  these  inland 
waters,  which  were  thoroughly  surveyed.    Two  overland 
parties  were  organized ;  one  to  pass  the  mountain  range 
to  the  north  of  Mount  Ranier ;  thence  to  strike  the  Co- 
lumbia, near  the  Piscouse  River,  to  Ohanagan,  and  as 
high  as  Colville,  on  the  Columbia  River,  a  settlement  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company ;  crossing  south  to  the  mis- 
sionary settlement  of  Chimikaine,  near  the  Spokane  River, 
thence  south  to  Lapwai,  on  the  Kooshooske,  thence  to 
Walla  Walla,  on  the  Columbia ;  returning  from  the  lat- 
ter place,  by  way  of  the  Yakema  River,  and  again  over 
the  mountain  pass  to  Nisqually.   This  journey  was  accom- 
plished, and  gave  important  information  relative  to  the 
country.     The  latter  party  passed  over  to  the  Columbia 
River  by  way  of  the  Cowlitz ;  thence  to  Vancouver,  the 
Dalls,  Walla  Walla,  and  as  far  east  as  the  missionary  sta- 
tion on  the  Walla  Walla,  returning  by  land  to  Vancou- 
ver; thence  to  the  Willamette  Valley,  the  settlement  of  the 
American  missionaries. 

On  the  27th  of  July  the  surveys  of  all  the  southern 
waters  of  Puget's  Sound  were  completed,  likewise  all  the 
observatory  duties  and  pendulum  experiments;  when  the 
Vincennes  took  her  departure  for  the  Straits  of  Juan  de 
Fuca,  to  meet  the  Porpoise,  and  continue  the  surveys 
to  the  northward.  On  leaving,  a  party  was  despatched 
to  explore  the  Chikilis  River,  and  survey  Grey's  Harbor, 
on  the  sea  coast,  about  forty  miles  to  the  north  of  Cape 
Disappointment.  The  Vincennes  anchored  in  New  Dun- 
giness  Roads,  and  was  joined  the  same  day  by  the  Por- 
poise. Orders  were  given  to  continue  the  surveys  to  the 
northward,  through  Johnstone  Straits,  and  round  Van- 
couver's Island ;  the  boats  left  for  the  survey  of  the  Gulf  de 
Arro;  and  whilst  engaged  in  this  numerous  archipelago, 


30 

through  which  it  passes,  the  news  of  the  loss  of  the  Pea- 
cock reached  me,  when  it  became  necessary  to  change 
my  intentions  and  proceed  at  once  to  the  Columbia  River. 
This  news,  though  dispiriting,  was  on  the  whole  a  great 
relief,  as  it  assured  me  that  Captain  Hudson,  his  officers 
and  crew,  were  all  safe  and  well,  instead  of  being,  as  ima- 
gination had  often  pictured  them  to  me,  on  some  of  the 
numerous  coral  reefs  they  were  sent  to  explore,  in  a  state 
of  starvation.     Orders  were  immediately  sent  to  the  Por- 
poise to  again  join  company;  and  after  completing  what  I 
had  in  hand,  I  left  for  the  Columbia  River,  and  arrived 
off  its  bar  on  the  6th  ci  August.    Here  I  found  my  pre- 
sence necessary.     I  accordingly  shifted  my  flag  to  the 
Porpoise,  and  put  the  Vincennes  in  charge  of  her  com- 
mander, with  orders  to  proceed  with  her  to  St.  Francisco; 
there  to  be  engaged  in  the  survey  of  its  harbor,  and  of 
the  river  Sacramento.  Proceeding  into  the  Columbia  River 
in  the  Porpoise,  the  Peacock's  officers  and  crew  were 
found  encamped  at  Astoria.     The  brig  Thomas  Perkins, 
of  Salem,  was  found  here.     She  was  purchased  in  order 
to  accommodate  the  officers  and  men,  and  enable  me  to 
carry  out  my  instructions.    The  survey  of  the  river  was 
begun  at  the  same  time.    The  two  brigs  were  moved  up 
it,  which  became  necessary  in  order  to  refit  the  Oregon's 
accommodations  for  her  crew.  The  latter  part  of  August 
we  reached  Vancouver  with  the  vessels,  and  during  the 
fortnight  of  our  stay  there,  we  were  enabled  not  only  to 
complete  her  outfit,  through  the  liberality  and  kindness 
of  Dr.  McLaughlin  and  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  offi- 
cers, but  to  push  the  surveying  operations  as  far  as  the 
rascades  of  the  Columbia  River,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  also  that  of  the  Willamette  to 
its  falls. 


Hiij 


5,  ''i. 


rtWiiMiiiiHiillwmW 


IS  of  the  Pea- 
ry to  change 
•lumbia  River, 
whole  a  great 
n,  his  officers 
)cing,  as  itna- 
I  some  of  the 
ore,  in  a  state 
\t  to  the  Por- 
sleting  what  I 
,  and  arrived 
»und  my  pre- 
y  flag  to  the 
of  her  cora- 
t.  Francisco ; 
irbor,  and  of 
lumbia  River 
[  crew  were 
aias  Perkins, 
ised  in  order 
enable  me  to 
he  river  was 
re  moved  up 
he  Oregon's 
rt  of  August 
I  during  the 
[  not  only  to 
nd  kindness 
ipany's  offi- 
as  far  as  the 
and  twenty 
'illamette  to 


1 


A  large  party  was  despatched  from  Vancouver  to  Cali- 
fornia, passing  through  the  Willamette  Valley,  the  Umqua 
and  Shasty  country,  and  striking  the  head  waters  of  the 
Sacrament  >  at  its  source,  and  down  its  valley  to  St.  Fran- 
cisco, where  it  joined  the  squadron  the  latter  part  of  Oc- 
tober. 

On  the  1st  of  October  we  reached  Astoria  again,  and 
began  to  embark  our  stores  and  get  ready  for  sea.  On 
the  3d  we  dropped  down  to  Baker's  Bay,  autl  on  the  6th 
were  enabled  to  pass  the  bar  without  accident.  I  returned 
in  the  Flying  Fish  for  a  few  days,  to  complete  the  survey 
in  the  river;  and  on  the  12th  again  joined  the  brigs.  As 
there  was  no  kind  of  boat  at  the  mouth  of  this  dangerous 
river,  I  left  the  launch  of  the  Peacock,  well  fitted  for  a 
pilot  boat,  to  afford  assistance  to  any  vessel  that  might 
require  it,  and  placed  her  under  the  care  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company's  agent  there. 

On  leaving  the  Columbia  River  orders  were  given  to 
the  Flying  Fish  to  further  explore  the  coast  to  the  south- 
ward, whilst  the  two  brigs  made  the  best  of  their  way  to 
the  harbor  of  St.  Francisco,  where  we  arrived  on  the  20th, 
and  found  there  <^>'^  Vincennes,  all  well ;  and  that  they 
had  nearly  conipicied  the  work.  The  Sacramento  had 
been  surveyed  170  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  overland 
party  had  not  \ct  arrived,  and  the  launch  was  despatched 
.up  the  river  >»  meet  them.  On  the  28th  they  returned, 
when  1  madi;  the  necessary  changes  in  the  ships.  It  gave 
me  much  pleasure  to  give  the  command  of  the  Oregon  to 
the  first  lieutenant  of  the  Vincennes,  Lieut.  Carr,  one  of 
the  most  zealous  officers  in  the  squadron.  The  Bay  of  St. 
Francisco  was  examined,  and  a  portion  of  it  re-surveyed. 
A  series  of  astronomical,  magnetical,  and  meteorological 
observations  were  made,and  parts  of  the  country  explored. 


.11 


g^ 


'iMlMilWffirilW'ltilff'i. 


I  'IE 


li 


*• 


lite 


I  Ij,  m 


38 

On  the  1st  of  November  we  sailed  from  St.  Francisco, 
and  in  consequence  of  the  destitute  condition  in  which 
the  crew  of  the  Peacock  were,  I  deemed  it  advisable  for 
their  health  to  touch  again  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  before 
encountering  the  climate  of  the  East  Indies.  I  took  ad- 
vantage in  our  way  to  run  for  some  islands  and  reefs  said 
to  exist  on  the  route  there.  No  appearance  of  them  was 
perceived. 

We  anchored  at  Oahu  on  the  18th  of  November.  Here 
we  met  with,  as  before,  a  hearty  welcome  from  all,  both 
natives  and  foreigners.  We  supplied  our  wants,  and  took 
our  departure  on  the  27th  of  November,  on  our  way 
homewards.  I  had  been  the  whole  cruise  extremely 
desirous  of  visiting  Japan,  but  in  consequence  of  the 
detention  of  the  Peacock,  and  her  subsequent  loss,  I 
was  obliged,  on  account  of  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and 
to  keep  my  engagement  with  the  crews,  to  give  up  the 
intention  of  proceeding  there.  The  day  after  leaving 
Oahu,  the  Porpoise  and  Oregon  parted  company,  with 
orders  to  search  for  and  survey  the  islands,  shoals,  and 
reefs  lying  to  the  northward  and  westward  of  the  Sand- 
wich Group,  towards  the  coast  of  Japan ;  the  Vincennes 
and  Flying  Fish  to  examine  carefully  the  position  of  the 
islands  and  reefs  laid  down  as  existing  on  the  route  to- 
wards the  East  Indies.  Only  one  of  them  was  found  to 
exist,  viz :  Wakes  Island.  The  Ladrones  were  made  on 
the  29th  of  December.  The  position  of  several  reefs 
supposed  to  exist  were  passed  over,  between  these  and  the 
Bashee  Islands.  Thence  to  Manilla,  where  in  like  man- 
ner observations  were  made,  and  parties  sent  to  the 
interior  to  gain  all  the  information  our  short  stay  would 
permit. 


-^immmmm 


„^^::ss^. 


39 


t.  Francisco, 
dVi  in  which 
advisable  for 
lands,  before 
I  took  ad- 
nd  reefs  said 
of  them  was 

mber.  Here 
om  all,  both 
nts,  and  took 
on  our  way 
e  extremely 
lence  of  the 
[uent  loss,  I 
i  season,  and 
give  up  the 
after  leaving 
mpany,  with 
,  shoals,  and 
of  the  Sand- 
le  Vincennes 
>sition  of  the 
the  route  to- 
was  found  to 
ere  made  on 
several  reefs 
these  and  the 
in  like  man- 
sent  to  the 
t  stay  would 


The  Flying  Fish,  that  had  been  ordered  to  pass  <o 
Strong's  and  Ascension  Islands,  in  the  Caroline  Group, 
rejoined  us  here,  having  come  through  the  Straits  of 
San  Bernadino.  At  Manilla  all  the  information  was  ob- 
tained that  they  possessed  relative  to  the  Sooloo  Sea, 
which  was  kindly  offered  to  me  by  the  captain  of  the 
port,  and  Senor  Halcon,  but  with  a  warning  that  it  was 
not  to  be  relied  upon ;  for  they  were  aware  it  was  ex- 
tremely defective,  and  so  it  proved.  Perhaps  no  portion 
of  the  route  passed  over  in  the  cruise  was  found  so  erro- 
neous as  this.  More  discoveries  or  corrections  have  been 
made  in  this  locality  than  any  other  portion  of  our  work 
of  equal  extent.  The  entrance  of  the  Sooloo  Sea,  south 
of  the  Island  of  Mindoro,  which  I  have  called  the  Straits 
of  Mindoro,  was  very  inaccurately  laid  down — many 
islands  omitted  entirely,  and  others  badly  placed,  with 
their  attendant  shoals,  &C.,  &c.  This  entrance  was 
examined  and  surveyed,  and  the  route  found  to  be  safe 
and  practicable,  with  ordinary  care.  Thence  we  pro- 
ceeded down  the  coast  of  Panay  to  the  Straits  of  Bas- 
ilan;  thence  to  the  Island  of  Sooloo,  and  anchored  in 
Soong  Roads,  where  we  had  communication  with  the 
Sultan  of  Sooloo,  and  received  from  him  a  stipulation  in 
writing  to  protect  the  lives  and  property  of  our  country- 
men in  case  of  shipwreck,  and  the  terms  on  which  he 
would  receive  our  vessels  and  their  cargoes.  Many  cor- 
rections were  made  in  the  charts  of  this  group.  From 
Sooloo  we  passed  to  the  western  entrance  of  this  sea. 
The  Strait  of  Balabac  was  examined,  and  a  chart  made 
of  its  entrance,  which  will  much  facilitate  our  navigation 
to  China  and  the  Philippine  Islands,  during  the  contrary 
monsoon,  instead  of  passing  through  the  Palawan  passage, 


':-3M 


Ifr; 


'  i 


nl  all  times  a  dangerous  one.  Sailing  directions  have  been 
prepared  for  this  route.  From  the  Slrait  of  Balabac  I 
proceeded  to  Singapore,  where  I  found  the  Porpoise, 
Oregon,  and  Flying  Fish — the  latter  having  parted  com- 
pany with  the  Vincennes  in  the  Straits  of  Mindoro.  The 
Porpoise  and  Oregon,  in  consequence  of  the  stormy 
weather  and  winds  encountered,  were  not  able  to  effect 
all  the  objects  of  their  late  orders. 

At  Singapore  we  received  our  stores,  and  were  much 
gratified  with  our  visit  to  this  rising  emporium.  Every 
attention  was  shown  us,  and  the  few  days  of  our  stay 
passed  agreeably  in  visiting  and  seeing  the  ceremonies 
connected  with  the  fete  of  the  "  Moharum."  Our  collec- 
tions in  zoology,  conchology,  and  botany,  were  very  much 
increased.  Here  I  would  beg  leave  to  return  my  warm 
thanks  for  the  attention  and  kindness  shown  us  by  one  of 
your  associates,  J.  Balastier,  Esq.,  U.  S.  Consul  there, 
and  from  whom  I  derived  much  information  relative  to 
this  Babel  of  the  East. 

Here  on  inspection  it  was  found  the  Flying  Fish  had 
been  much  worn,  and  that  much  expense  and  detention 
would  be  incurred  in  order  to  fit  her  for  the  voyage 
home.  Not  feeling  myself  authorized  in  risking  the  offi- 
cers and  men  to  make  the  voyage  home  this  season  of  the 
year,  I  therefore  determined  to  sell  her,  which  was  ac- 
cordingly done  under  the  direction  of  our  consul.  We 
all  felt  much  at  parting  with  her. 
•  We  left  Singapore  on  the  26th  of  February.  Passed 
through  the  Straits  of  Rhio — transit  bearings  and  obser- 
vations were  made  to  ascertain  the  correctness  of  the 
charts;  thence  through  the  Straits  of  Banca  and  those 
of  Sunda,  after  which  I  parted  company  with  the  brigs, 


|ii| 


ill  : 


mmm 


I. 


IS  have  been 
if  Balabac  I 
le  Porpoise, 
parted  com- 
ndoro.  The 
the  stormy 
ible  to  effect 

were  much 
um.  Every 
of  our  stay 
ceremonies 
Our  collec- 
e  very  much 
rn  my  warm 
us  by  one  of 
Consul  there, 
a  relative  to 

[)g  Fish  had 
id  detention 
the  voyage 
£ing  the  ofii- 
season  of  the 
bich  was  ac- 
;onsul.    We 

ary.  Passed 
8  and  obser- 
tness  of  the 
;a  and  those 
ith  the  brigs, 


m 

directing  them  to  proceed  to  St.  Helena,  and  thence  to 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  from  thence  to  the  United  States. 
The  Vincennes  stopped  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
at  St.  Helena ;  at  both  of  which  places  we  feel  ourselves 
under  many  obligations  for  the  attention  paid  us.  And 
thence  to  the  United  States,  arriving  at  New  York  on 
the  9th  of  June,  1842,  after  an  absence  of  three  years 
and  ten  months.  The  warm  reception  and  kind  hospi- 
talities we  met  with  from  our  consular  agents  and  coun- 
trymen every  where,  claims  my  warmest  thanks.  They 
will  ever  be  gratefully  remembered  by  us  all. 

A  short  statement  will  now  be  given,  to  afford  some 
idea  of  the  results  obtained  in  the  various  departments, 
viz: 

•w'At  all  the  important  points  of  the  cruise  an  observatory 
has  been  established,  and  the  longitude  determined  by 
moon  culminating  stars,  in  connection  with  similar  obser- 
vations at  Cambridge  (Mass.)  University,  by  Mr.  Bond, 
and  at  Washington,  by  Lieut.  Gillis. 

The  latitude  has  been  deduced  by  circummeridian  ob- 
servations of  the  sun  and  stars. 

Meridian  distances  have  been  carried  throughout  our 
route  by  chronometers  from  and  to  well  established  points. 
By  a  system  of  comparison  pursued,  all  the  chronometers 
of  the  squadron  may  be  brought  to  bear  on  any  one  point. 
Their  performances  have  been  satisfactory  throughout  the 
cruise — ^but  two  out  of  the  whole  number  (twenty-nine) 
have  stopped. 

-''  Every  opportunity  had  been  taken  to  determine  the 
true  position  of  islands,  reefs,  &c.,  by  observations  made 
on  shore. 

1^  Our  labors  in  hydrography  have  been  extensive.    We 
now  have  one  hundred  and  eighty  charts  nearly  reaidy 
6 


■fi'f 


^, 


i  !^ 


■ '   I  >''' 


.  If 


A 


for  the  engraver;  it  is  probable  that  we  shall  have  as 
many  more  vi^hen  all  the  islands,  harbors,  shoals,  and  reefs 
are  plotted,  that  have  been  examined  and  surveyed. 
Sailing  directions  will  accompany  them.  The  greater  part 
of  these  are  necessary  for  cur  whalers,  and  many  for  our 
vessels  engaged  in  India  voyages.  In  all  our  explorations 
the  constant  aim  has  been  to  obtain  useful  results.  Par- 
ticular attention  has  been  paid  to  ascertain  whether  wood, 
water,  and  what  kindof  refreshments  (if  any)  were  to  be 
had ;  anchorages  have  been  looked  for  and  surveyed ; 
and  the  character  of  the  natives  and  the  kind  of  treatment 
that  may  be  expected  from  them.  In  the  progress  of 
these  duties  the  unknown  parts  have  been  particularly 
attended  to;  we  have  always  occupied  new  ground  unless 
there  was  reason  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  the  surveys 
of  those  who  had  gone  before  us.  Views  of  all  head- 
lands, entrances  to  harbors,  &c.,  &c.,  have  been  taken, 
and  will  appear  on  the  charts.  They  number  above  five 
hundred. 

Data  for  geographical  maps  of  the  islands,  &c.,  &c., 
have  been  obtained,  and  many  valuable  maps  will  be  the 
result  of  our  labors.  Some  of  them  are  already  in  process 
of  preparation. 

In  magnetism,  observations  have  been  made  at  fifty- 
seven  stations,  for  dip  and  intensity ;  and  at  every  point 
where  we  have  remained  a  sufficient  time,  those  for 
diurnal  variation.  The  dip  has  been  observed  at  sea 
frequently,  and  the  ship's  head  always  kept  north  and 
south  whilst  the  observations  were  making.  Very  many 
attempts  have  been  made  to  observe  the  intensity  at 
sea,  both  by  horizontal  and  vertical  vibrations,  but  I 
have  never  been  able  to  satisfy  myself  with  the  results, 
whatever  others  may  have  done.    The  only  instrument 


-'■^ffawlilMWSBWHBg'I'Blff'f' 


43 


all  have  as 
s,  and  reefs 

surveyed, 
greater  part 
any  for  our 
xplorations 
ults.  Par- 
;ther  wood, 
were  to  be 

surveyed ; 
•f  treatment 
progress  of 
particularly 
)und  unless 
the  surveys 
f  all  head- 
•een  taken, 
•  above  five 

,  &c.,  &c., 
will  be  the 
jr  in  process 

le  at  fifty- 
Bvery  point 
,  those  for 
Ted  at  sea 

north  and 
Very  many 
ntensity  at 
ons,  but  I 
the  results, 

instrument 


with  which  1  believe  it  is  possible  to  succeed  in  getting 
intensity  observations  is  that  of  Fox,  with  which  I  regret 
I  was  not  supplied.  The  term  days,  whenever  possible, 
have  been  attended  to.  Observations  for  variation  have 
been  taken  twice  a  day,  when  the  weather  would  admit, 
during  the  whole  cruise.  Barlow's  plates  were  used  with 
the  compass.  All  islands  that  afforded  suitable  positions 
for  results  in  this  department  were  landed  upon,  and  series 
of  observations  made  for  dip  and  intensity.  ^ 

For  the  determination  of  the  South  rn  Magnetic  Pole, 
we  have  variation  observations  from  35°  easterly  variation 
to  59°  west,  between  the  longitudes  of  97°  and  165° 
east,  nearly  on  the  same  parallel  of  latitude,  which  will 
give  numerous  convergent  lines  through  that  space  for  its 
determination.  Our  greatest  dip  was  87°  30'.  The  sum- 
mit of  Mouna  Loa,  thirteen  thousand  four  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  was  among  the  magnetic  sta- 
tions. 

The  pendulums  have  been  swung  at  six  stations,  one 
of  these  at  the  summit  of  Mouna  Loa,  and  another  at  its 

foot. 

Full  meteorological  journals  have  been  kept  during  the 
whole  cruise— the  hours  of  observation,  three  and  nine  P. 
M.,  and  three  and  nine  A.  M ;  the  temperature  at  the  mast 
head  taken  at  the  same  hours;  that  of  the  air  and  water 
every  hour  during  the  cruise,  at  sea  and  in  port.  When  in 
port  thermometers  have  been  sunk,  and  the  temperature  of 
springs,  wells,  and  caves,  taken  for  the  mean  temperature 
of  the  climate. 

The  epochs  for  the  periodical  meteors  in  August  and 
November  have  been  attentively  watched,  in  each  quarter 
of  the  heavens,  by  four  observers  at  a  time., Many  obser- 
vations have  been  made  on  the  zodiacal  lights. 


.■.—      ■!      ., 


il 


4* 

The  Aurora  Australis  has  been  frequently  observed. 
Numerous  observations  have  been  made  by  sinking  a 
white  object,  and  under  a  variety  of  circumstances,  to  get 
some  idea  of  the  depth  at  which  the  solar  light  penetrates 
the  ocean. 

The  tidal  observations  have  been  attended  to,  and 
series  had  in  different  places  at  the  same  time.  Much 
interesting  information  has  been  obtained  relative  to  the 
sudden  flow  and  reflow  of  the  sea  among  the  South  Sea 
Islands. 

The  temperature  of  the  ocean  at  various  depths  has 
been  frequently  ascertained,  and  from  making  daily  expe- 
riments during  the  voyage  from  the  East  Indies  home,  at 
one  hundred  fathoms  depth,  some  interesting  results  have 
been  obtained.  Under  the  line  a  stratum  of  water  23  de- 
grees colder  than  the  surface,  and  10  degrees  colder  than 
north  and  south  of  it,  has  been  passed  over,  of  about  two 
hundred  miles  in  width,  giving  rise  to  the  belief  that  there 
exists  (if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression)  a  sub-marine 
riverj  flowing  down  the  coast  of  Europe  and  Africa, 
and  obeying  the  same  laws  that  govern  the  atmospheric 
currents. 

Refractions,  halos,  and  parhelias  have  been  noted,  and 
the  circumstances  of  their  appearance,  including  the  state 
of  the  barometer,  thermometer,  and  hygrometer  observed, 
and  sketches  made. 

The  limits  of  the  trades,  variable,  and  periodical  winds 
have  been  carefully  looked*-to,  together  with  their  direc- 
tion and  force. 

The  currents  of  the  ocean  have  been  tried  very  often 
by  the  current  log,  particularly  on  the  several  coasts  visit- 
ed. 

On  the  coast  of  New  Holland  a  current  has  been  per 


I'    '\ 

I    ; 


observed. 

sinking  a 

ices,  to  get 

penetrates 

id  to,  and 
le.  Much 
itive  to  the 
South  Sea 

depths  has 
laily  expe- 
es  home,  at 
esults  have 
ater  23  de- 
colder  than 
r  about  two 
f  that  there 
sub-marine 
md  Africa, 
itmospheric 

noted,  and 
ng  the  state 
jr  observed, 

dical  winds 
their  direc- 

l  very  often 
coasts  visit- 

is  been  per 


ceived,  which  the  temperature  will  readily  point  out,  be- 
tween Sydney  and  Van  Deiman's ;  thermometric  obser- 
vations are  equally  as  indispensable  as  they  are  on  our 
own  coast,  though  on  a  smaller  €cale,  to  give  facility  to 
navigation.  This  current  runs  at  times  with  great  strength, 
and  according  to  the  season  of  the  year  and  wind,  will  be 
found  at  different  distances  from  the  laiid.  Vessels,  there- 
fore, bound  from  Hobart  Town  to  Sydney  would  much 
shorten  their  passage  by  keeping  off  shore. 

In  Botany  about  ten  thousand  species  have  been  ob- 
tained, and  from  three  to  five  specimens  of  each,  all 
brought  or  sent  home  in  a  dried  state.    This  will  alone 
show  the  industry  of  Mr.  Rich  and  others  of  this  depart- 
ment.   About  one  hundred  specimens  of  living  plants 
have  been  brought  home  in  cases ;  among  them  several 
East  Indian  fruits  and  other  plants  from  that  region, 
supposed  to  be  rarely  found  in  European  conservatories. 
These  are  now  under  the  care  of  the  assistant  botanist 
and  horticulturist  of  the  expedition  (Mr.  Brackenridge), 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  his  industry  and  zeal  will  bring 
forward  many  of  the  seeds  obtained  during  the  cruise,  in 
order  to  complete  the  history  of  the  species.    Sections  of 
stems  and  specimens  of  wood  were  preserved,  and  pro- 
mise to  be  interesting  in  a  scientific  point  of  view  ;  such 
ds  arborescent  geraniums  J  rubus,  pipers, /ems,  &c.,  &c., 
and  your  Institution  has  been  distributing  from  its  first 
organization  the  seeds  of  flowers,  trees,  vegetables,  &c., 
sent  home  at  different  times  by  the  expedition.   Geogra- 
phical botany,  both  terrestrial  and  marine,  has  been  par- 
ticularly attended  to,  and  will  afford  most  interesting  re- 
sults relative  to  the  distribution  of  plants  over  the  globe. 
A  beautiful  collection  of  drawings  in  the  botanic  depart- 
ment has  been  made  by  Mr.  Agate. 


! 


i 


mm 


i>-'^Mr->-:,-?'~*f-y /'-*«'■  ■ 


, 


m 


u 


J 


If    ?,. 


J 1 


46 

111  the  Geological  and  Mineralogical  Departments  much 
industry  and  research  has  been  shown.  In  an  examination 
of  the  various  countries  visited,  drawings  have  been  made 
of  all  remarkable  geological  phenomena,  and  specimens  of 
minerals,  fossils,  and  mineral  waters  obtained.  The  gen- 
tleman having  charge  of  this  department  (Mr.  Dana), 
has  devoted  his  attention  with  great  zeal  to  the  study  of 
Crustacea,  and  especially  to  those  microscopic  species  inha- 
biting the  mid  ocean — a  branch  of  knowledge  hitherto 
almost  neglected.  About  eleven  hundred  species  have 
been  figured;  among  these  are  many  new  forms,  tending 
to  illustrate  not  only  this  branch  of  zoology,  but  general 
anatomy  and  physiology.  The  development  of  the  reefs 
of  the  extensive  Fiji  Group  offered  a  peculiarly  favorable 
field ;  in  the  investigation,  many  facts  were  ascertained 
which  will  throw  much  light  on  the  occurrence  and  con- 
figuration of  coral  reefs  and  islands,  concerning  which 
many  erroneous  ideas  at  present  prevail.  Many  of  the 
animals  are  microscopic,  and  rarely  has  the  zoologist  had 
such  an  opportunity  to  delineate  them  from  life.  About 
one  hundred  sheets  of  drawings  have  been  made  of  these 
animals. 

From  the  Philological  Department  many  interesting 
results  may  be  expected.  Vocabularies  have  not  only 
been  collected,  but  the  fundamental  structure  of  the 
languages  inquired  into,  to  ascertain  and  fix  their  classi- 
fication, and  contributing  many  facts  towards  illustrating 
the  migrations  of  the  human  family,  as  well  as  the  origin 
of  languages.  A  field  of  great  interest  was  opened  among 
the  native  Africans  imported  as  slaves  at  Rio  Janeiro.  It 
is  somewhat  surprising  that  this  field,  so  accessible,  has 
been  so  long  neglected.  Much  interesting  information 
was  obtained  on  the  minor  points  of  African  geography. 


liii  ;1 


'Imenls  much 
I  examination 
^e  been  made 
specimens  ol' 
I.  The  gen- 
(Mr.  Dana), 

the  study  of 
species  inha- 
dge  hitherto 
species  have 
>rms,  tending 

but  genera] 
:  of  the  reefs 
xly  favorable 
i  ascertained 
nee  and  con- 
^rning  which 
Many  of  the 
soologist  had 
life.  About 
iiade  of  these 

r  interesting 
ive  not  only 
:ture  of  the 

their  classi- 
s  illustrating 
as  the  origin 
>ened  among 

Janeiro.  It 
[sessible,  has 

information 
geography. 


At  the  different  groups  in  the  Pacific  a  large  field  was 
opened  for  procuring  the  lan^cuages  of  these  islanders, 
which  has  been  taken  full  auvantage  of;  and  niucli  infor- 
mation obtained  of  their  system  of  mythology,  &c.  At  one 
of  the  islands  of  the  Kingsmill  Group  the  entire  history 
of  its  colonization,  and  the  origin  of  its  population,  was 
obtained.  Much  light  will  be  thrown  upon  the  languages 
of  the  aborigines  of  Australia,  a  matter  of  some  impor- 
tance, and  essential  as  one  of  the  links  in  the  history  of 
mankind. 

Whilst  at  Manilla  a  very  old  edition  of  the  Tagalo 
grammar  was  presented  by  one  of  the  Rev.  Padres,  which 
contains  a  full  account  of  that  language  and  the  mode  of 
writing  it — no  manuscripts  were  supposed  to  exist.  At 
Singapore  a  collection  of  Malay  and  Bugis  manuscripts 
was  obtained  from  the  American  mission,  thought  to  be  the 
most  important  that  has  ever  left  the  East  Indies,  except- 
ing that  made  by  Sir  Stamford  Raffles,  which,  it  is  well 
known,  was  destroyed  by  fire  on  the  way  to  England. 

The  gentleman  (Mr.  Hale)  in  charge  of  this  depart- 
ment was  left  in  the  Oregon  territory,  to  visit  different 
parts  of  it,  as  it  was  deemed  his  time  would  be  more  use- 
fully employed  there  among  the  different  tribes.  His 
researches  did  not,  however,  extend  as  far  north  as  to 
include  the  whole  territory  of  Oregon,  in  consequence  of 
the  hostile  Indians.  Many  interesting  results  have  accrued 
to  the  expedition  from  his  services  being  so  disposed  of, 
and  will  go  very  far  to  solve  the  problem  of  the  original 
peopliiig  of  America. 

Extensive  collections  of  specimens  were  made  in  all  the 
departments ;  of  zoology  very  many  of  them  are  now  in 
your  halls — more  have  been  brought  home.  Attention  has 
been  paid,  both  positively  and  negatively,  to  the  different 


i 


m 


'  ♦. 


48  '      ' 

countries  visited,  viz  :  birds,  quadrupeds,  reptiles,  fishes, 
insects,  mollusks,  zoophytes,  &c.,  received  all  the  atten- 
tion possible. 

This  was  a  work  of  great  labor.  Notes  were  made  of 
every  species  met  with,  lists  made  out,  &c.,  &,c.  Each 
individual  specimen  required  to  be  so  identified  and  dis- 
posed of,  that  no  question  should  hereafter  arise  as  to  its 
origin  and  locality.  All  these  will  tend  not  only  to  illus- 
trate the  different  departments  of  zoology,  but  natural 
history  in  its  most  extended  sense.  These  materials  will 
essentially  aid  in  giving  some  idea  of  the  distribution  of 
land  and  marine  productions.  For  the  success  in  these 
departments  the  expedition  is  greatly  indebted  to  Messrs. 
Peale  and  Pickering,  the  naturalists. 

Some  important  facts  have  been  ascertained  relative  to 
the  Physical  History  of  Man,  which  could  only  have  been 
obtained  in  the  course  of  such  a  voyage. 

The  Department  of  Conchology,  &,c.,  &c.,  was  filled 
with  great  zeal  by  Mr.  Couthouy,  the  first  part  of  the 
cruise,  until  December,  1839,  when  he  was  taken  sick. 
His  duties  were  then  divided  among  Messrs.  Pickering, 
Peale,  Dana,  and  Drayton,  of  the  scientific  corps,  and 
many  of  the  officers  attached  to  the  squadron  assisted. 
No  correct  estimate  can  be  made  of  the  number  of  shells. 
The  catalogues  and  lists  of  the  different  vessels  are  not 
yet  at  hand  to  refer  to.  The  number  of  mollusks  and 
zoophytes  collected  have  been  very  great. 

During  the  cruise  two  opportunities  were  afforded  the 
naturalists  to  visit  the  crest  of  the  Andes,  in  Chili  and 
Peru,  at  the  most  favorable  season — a  few  days  before 
they  were  covered  with  snow. 
>/  There  are  over  two  thousand  sheets  of  drawings,  paint- 
ings, and  sketches,  embracing  the  various  departments  of 


liMl 


ptiles,  fishes, 
all  the  atten- 

ere  made  of 
,  Sec.  Each 
Bed  and  dis- 
irise  as  to  its 
only  to  illus- 
,  but  natural 
materials  will 
istribution  of 
:cess  in  these 
ed  to  Messrs. 

ed  relative  to 
ily  have  been 

:c.,  was  filled 
It  part  of  the 
IS  taken  sick. 
rs.  Pickering, 
ic  corps,  and 
Iron  assisted, 
nber  of  shells, 
essels  are  not 
moUusks  and 

e  afforded  the 
in  Chili  and 
V  days  before 

awings,  paint- 
lepartments  of 


natural  history,  including  portraits,  costumes,  botany,  &c., 
&,c.  On  many  of  the  sheets  there  are  several  figures ; 
therefore  the  number  of  distinct  objects  will  be  much 
greater.  Care  was  taken  not  to  make  drawings  of  animals 
that  had  been  already  figured.  This  will  bear  ample  evi- 
dence of  the  industry  of  our  two  artists,  Messrs.  Dray- 
ton and  Agate.  Their  ability  and  well  known  accuracy 
requires  no  comment  from  me ;  they  have  both  assisted 
very  much  in  the  other  departments;  and  it  gives  me  plea- 
sure to  state  that  the  utmost  harmony  has  existed  with  the 
scientific  gentlemen  and  myself,  (with  but  one  exception,) 
and  that  they  have  cooperated  harmoniously  with  me  in 
our  kindred  pursuits.  The  ardor  that  all  have  felt  in  their 
duty  has  tended  greatly  to  increase  our  results.  In  the 
detailed  account  of  this  voyage  the  individual  exertions 
of  all  the  officers  who  have  assisted  in  carrying  out  this 
great  undertaking,  will  be  noticed.  By  reference  to  the 
accomp.!nying  chart  of  our  route,  it  will  be  seen  that  every 
prominent  point  of  the  southern  part  of  the  globe  has  been 
visited. 

Collections  were  formed  of  their  various  implements 
and  manufactures,  which,  when  geographically  arranged, 
will  afford  an  interesting  spectacle  to  all  who  regard  the 
condition  of  the  inhabitants  in  remote  quarters  of  the 
earth. 

The  discoveries  by  the  Exploring  Expedition  are  the 
Antarctic  Continent,  from  160°  east  to  97°  east,  and  our 
country  is  justly  entitled  to  this  honor.  We  were  a  few 
days  prior  to  the  French;  and  it  remains  to  be  seen 
whether  we  shall  not  prove  the  first  discoverers  of  any 
land  in  this  portion  of  the  globe ;  no  notice  being  taken 
of  Bellamy's  Islands  by  Captain  Ross,  as  far  as  informa- 
tion has  reached  us,  through  his  published  reports, 
7 


i-iiinai^ 


I  i:l' 


'^'*^ 


60 


r 


although  he  has  represented  thein  iii  a  position  on  \m 
chart  where  he  ought  to  have  seen  them  if  they  had 
existed. 

Many  small  islands  and  dangerous  reefs  have  been  dis- 
covered by  the  squadron,  and  among  them  one  by  the 
Peacock;  where  the  natives  had  never  seen  any  whites 
before.  The  locaUties  of  islands  and  reefe  searched  for 
and  run  over,  k  is  impossible  to  mention  at  this  time. 
The  hydrographic  part  of  the  voyage  wUl  embrace  them 
all. 

The  information  relative  to  commerce  generally^  and 
to  American  commerce  and  navigation  in  particular,  in 
the  different  partti  of  the  world  visited  by  the  expedition, 
is  *  oluminous.  The  statistics  of  all  (he  countries  we  have 
visited,  embracing  the  number  of  inhabrtants,  their  pro- 
ducts, manufactures,  exports,  and  imports,  including  also 
the  regulation  of  ports,  rates  of  excliange,  value  of  money, 
&LC.,  &c.;  and  duties  on  American  vessels  and  fH'oducts, 
have  been  procured.  No  opportunity  has  been  omkted 
to  gain  useful  information,  which,  when  published,  must 
be  of  great  use  to  our  commercial  operations. 

The  explorations  of  the  squadron  must  prove  of  great 
value  to  the  whalers  and  their  interests,  not  only  in  dimin- 
ishing the  dangers  which  beset  their  paths,  by  furnishing 
charts  and  sailing  directions,  but  in  opening  new  grounds 
for  their  fisheries,  and  affording  the  necessary  information 
where  they  can  obtain  refreshments  and  supply  their 
wants,  by  making  regulations  at  the  different  groups  with 
the  natives  to  afford  them  ample  protection  for  (heir  Uves 
and  property.  • 

No  opportunity  has  been  lost  sight  of  to  afford  aid  and 
assistance  to  all  whom  we  have  fallen  in  with  that  required 
it,  and  to  punish  those  who  have  committed  acts  of  vio- 


.      -^v 


iiition  on  \m 
if  they   had 

ve  been  dis- 
one  by  the 
any  whites 

searched  for 

ht  this  time. 

nbrace  them 

nerally,  and 
articular,  in 
expedition, 
ies  we  have 
I,  their  pro- 
eluding  also 
le  of  money, 
id  iH'oducts, 
eeu  omkted 
lished,  must 

)ve  of  great 
Ay  in  dtmin- 
y  furnishing 
lew  grounds 
information 
upply  their 
groups  with 
>r  (heir  Uves 

ford  aid  and 
hat  required 
acts  of  vio- 


M 

lence  on  our  countrymen,  while  engaged  in  their  lawful 
pursuits. 

In  the  squadron  we  have  been  blessed  with  extraordi- 
nary health,  notwithstanding  we  have  been  exposed  to 
the  vie'  ""  of  every  climate  in  quicit  succession.  Much 
credit  dv  )  the  medical  officers.  In  addition  to  their 
ordinary  duties  they  were  engaged  in  the  meteorological 
observations. 

I  impute  much  of  the  health  of  the  crew  to  the  absence 
of  spirituous  liquors  m  the  most  exposed  duties.  I  feel 
satisfied  that  this  part  of  the  ration  is  not  required,  and 
does  infinite  harm  to  the  service,  destroying  and  sapping 
its  morals.  Nearly  all  the  punishments  that  became  ne- 
cessary can  be  traced  to  this  cause.  Hot  coffee  was  served 
to  the  crews  durhg  our  continuance  among  the  ice,  on 
their  going  on  watch,  and  proved  extremely  welcome. 
Great  care  was  taken  to  keep  the  ship  well  ventilated 
and  the  men  in  dry  clothes.  A  smaller  number  of  casual- 
ties have  occurred  than  was  to  be  expected  on  such  ser- 
vice. Many  distressed  seamen  have  been  brought  home 
whom  we  found  on  the  different  islands. 

Thus,  sir,  I  have  noted  the  mile  stones  of  the  expedi- 
tion, and  beg  leave  to  thank  you  and  the  members  of  the 
Institute,  in  the  name  of  the  expedition,  for  the  honor 
you  have  done  us  in  connecting  our  labors  with  your 
own  and  making  our  collections  the  nucleus  of  your  insti- 
tution. I  must  beg  to  call  your  attention,  that  it  has  been 
understood  by  the  officers  and  crews  attached  to  the  ex- 
pedition, that  after  the  Government  were  supplied,  par- 
ticularly in  the  department  of  conchology,  the  remainder 
would  belong  to  the  officers,  to  be  divided  among  them. 
Thus  far  they  have  not  been  allowed  to  retain  any  thing. 
The  collections  are  so  large,  and  so  many  of  the  same 


52 


species,  that  it  is  presumed  many  will  be  left.  The  only 
object  in  thus  bringing  the  subject  before  you  is  to  put 
in  their  claim  prior  to  any  others,  after  the  Government. 
In  conclusion,  I  must  beg  you  will  (in  order  to  have  a 
proper  estimate  of  the  difficulties  we  have  had  to  encoun- 
ter) reflect  what  was  the  state  of  this  expedition  prior  to 
my  connection  with  it.  In  the  language  of  the  many,  it 
had  become  a  by-word  and  laughing  stock.  Contrast  this 
with  its  present  state.  It  is  truly  gratifying  to  know  you 
feel  proud  of,  and  can  appreciate  our  exertions.  We  have 
cause  to  feel  thankful  and  satisfied  that  an  all-wise  Provi- 
dence has  protected  us  through  the  many  difficulties  and 
dangers  by  which  we  have  been  surrounded,  and  returned 
us  in  safety  to  our  homes  and  firesides.  Would  that  I 
could  feel  that  some  gratifying  expressions  had  been 
made  to  the  officers  and  crews  before  they  were  dispersed 
to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe.  For  myself,  I  trust 
that  a  few  weeks  will  give  me  the  investigation  into  my 
conduct  I  desire.  I  have  no  apprehension  as  to  the  result. 
One  thing  is  certain,  I  shall  always  have  the  proud  and 
conscientious  feeling  of  having  done  my  duty ;  and  that  I 
have  carried  the  moral  influence  of  our  country  wherever 
our  flag  has  waved. 

■...       CHARLES  WILKES. 


i    i 


M       ^ 


ERRATA.-Pagc  15,  line  U  from  top,  for '  dog,'  read  '  log  \'  page  il,  Kne  1,  for  •  Pisc«doie»,'  rend 
Fncadarn;'  line  18,  for  *  Moiiwa,'  ivad  *  Mouna.' 


\ 


\ 


.  The  only 
ou  is  to  put 
jrovernment. 
er  to  have  a 
I  to  encoun- 
tion  prior  to 
the  many,  it 
I^ontrast  this 
to  know  you 
is.  We  have 
-wise  Provi- 
(iiculties  and 
md  returned 
ould  that  I 
s  had  been 
re  dispersed 
'seli,  I  trust 
tion  into  my 
to  the  result, 
e  proud  and 
r ;  and  that  I 
iry  wherever 

VILKES. 


roi'  *  Piscidoio,*  rend 


LIST  OF  OFFICERS  AND  SCIENTIFIC  CORPS  ATTACHED 
TO  THE  U.  S.  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


U.  S.  Ship  Vincennes. 

Charles  Wilkes,  Esq.,  commanding  Exploring  Expeditio 

Thomas  L.  Craven,  lieutenant,  left  at  Valparaiso,  June  6th,  to  take 
command  of  Sea  Gull. 

Overton  Carr,  lieutenant,  took  command  of  brig  Oregon  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, October,  1841. 

Robert  E.  Johnson,*  lieutenant,  detached  at  Honolulu,  Nov.  1841. 

James  Alden,  lieutenant,  joined  brig  Porpoise  at  San  Francisco,  Octo- 
ber, 1841. 

William  L.  Maury,  lieutenant,  joined  Peacock  at  Orange  Bay  and 
Porpoise  at  Callao. 

James  H.  North,  acting  master,  joined  brig  Porpoise  at  Callao. 

Edward  Gilchrist,  acting  surgeon,  detached  at  Sydney,  March,  1840. 

R.  R.  Waldron,  purser. 

J.  L.  Elliott,  chaplain,  detached  at  San  Francisco,  October,  1841, 

J.  L.  Fox,  assistant  surgeon,  joined  Porpoise  at  San  Francisco,  October, 
1841. 

J.  Gl.  Whittle,  assistant  surgeon,  joined  Peacock  at  Honolulu,  and  Vin- 
cennes again  at  San  Francisco. 

George  M.  Totten,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Porpoise  at  Callao,  and 
Vincennes  at  Honolulu. 

William  Reynolds,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Peacock,  1839,  and 
Flying  Fish  at  Honolulu,  1840,  and  Porpoise  at  Singapore. 

William  May,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Flying  Fish  on  a  cruiso 
south,  1839-'40,  and  Vincennes  again  May,  1840. 

Joseph  P.  Sandford,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Porpoise  at  Tahiti,  and 
schooner  Flying  Fish  at  San  Francisco,  and  Porpoise  at  Singapore. 

George  W.  Clark,  midshipman,  joined  Peacock  at  Tahiti,  and  Vin- 
cennes again  at  San  Francisco. 

Samuel  Elliott,  midshipman. 

William  Smith,  boatswain. 

Washington  Bright,  gunner,  joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
♦Coiiiinauder  of  Sea  Gull  on  her  Soullierii  miicc. 


^%-* 


54 


i 


William  M.  Laiohton,  carpenter,  joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

Samuel  N.  Hawkins,  sailmaker. 

Benjamin  Vandebfokd,  pilot,  died  April,  1842. 

R.  P.  Robinson,  purser's  steward. 

Scientific  Corps. 
Charles  Pickering,  naturalist. 
Joseph  Drayton,  artist.  •    ' 

J.  D.  Bbackenridoe,  assistant  botanist. 
John  G.  Brown,  mathematical  instrument  maker. 
John  W.  W.  Dykb,  assistant  secretary  to  corps. 
Joseph  P.  Couthooy,  naturalist,  left  at  Sydney  and  detached  at  Hon- 
olulu, November,  1840. 

U.  S.  Ship  Peacock,  wrecked  July  \Sth,  1841. 
William  L.  Hudson,  E8q.,commanding,joinedVincennes at  San  Fran- 
cisco. 
Samuel  P.  Lee,  first  lieutenant,  detached  at  Orange  Bay,  Feb.  1839. 
W.  M.  Walker,*  lieutenant,  joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  River,  and 

Vineennes  at  San  Francisco. 
aeoROE  F.  Emmons,  lieutenant,  joined  Vineennes  at  San  Francisco. 
O.  H.  Perry,  lieutenant,  joined  Vineennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Thomas  A.  Budd,  acting  master,  joined  Vineennes  at  Fiji. 
J.  F.  Sickles,  aurgeon,  joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
William  Spiedbn,  purser,  joined  Oregon  at  Columbia  River. 
Silas  Holmes,  assistant  surgeon,  joined  Porpoise  at  Sydney,  and  Oregon 

at  San  Francisco. 
Jambs  B.  Lewis,  passed  midshipman,  jomed  Flying  Fish  at  Fiji,  re- 
turned home  from  Oahu  sick. 
Henrt  Gansevoort,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Vineennes  at  Fiji. 
Henry  Eld,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Vineennes  at  Fiji. 
George  W.  Harrison,  joined  Flying  Fish  on  her  cruise  south.  Pea- 
cock at  Fiji,  and  Oregon  at  Columbia  River. 
Wilkes  Henry,  midshipman,  joined  Vineennes  at  Callao,  killed  July 

24th,  1840,  at  Malolo. 
William  H.  Hudson,  midshipman,  joined  Vineennes  at  Columbia  River. 
Frederick  D.  Stuart,  captain's  clerk,  joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia 

River,  and  Vineennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Thomas  G.  Bell,  boatswain,  joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  River,  and 
Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 

•Command  of  Flying  Fi»h,  firBt  cruise  south. 


iched  al  Hon- 


s  at  San  Fran- 

Feb.  1839. 
ia  River,  and 

Francisco. 

CO. 


liver. 

ey,  and  Oregon 

sh  at  Fiji,  re- 

ines  at  Fiji. 

ii- 

iso  south,  Pea- 

ao,  killed  July 

olumbia  River. 
le  at  Columbia 

>bia  River,  and 


John  D.  Anderson,  gunner,  detached  at  Callao 
Jonas  Dibble,  carpenter,  joined  Oregon  at  Columbia  River. 
J.  D.  Freeman,  sailmaker,  joined  Porpoise  at  Columbia  River. 
William  H.  Inslev,  purser's  steward,  detached  at  Callao. 

Scientific  Corps. 
James  D.  Dana,  mineralogist,  joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
T.  R.  Peale,  naturalist,  joined  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 
Horatio  Hale,  philologist,  joined  Vincennes  at  New  Zealand,  Peacock 

at  Honolulu,  and  was  left  at  Oregon  to  cross  the  country. 
F.  L.  Davenport,  interpreter,  detached  at  Rio. 

U,  S.  Ship  Relief,  sent  home  from  Callao,  by  way  of  Sandwich  Islands 

and  Sydney, 

A.  K.  Lono,  lieutenant  commanding. 

R.  F.  PiNKNEY,*  lieutenant,  joined  Peacock  at  Orange  Bay,  Flying  Fish 
at  Callao,  and  detached  at  Honolulu,  October,  1840. 

A.  L.  Case,  lieutenant,  joined  Vincennes  at  Callao. 

Joseph  A.  Underwood,  lieutenant,  joined  Vincennes  at  Callao  and 
killed  at  Malolo,  July  24th,  1840. 

Qe'oru  T.  Sinclair,  acting  master,  joined  Porpoise  at  Callao,  com- 
r\  !  Flying  Fish  at  Fiji,  joined  Porpoise  again  at  Honolulu, 
^  vnier,  1840. 

J.  C.  iTALXER,  acting  surgeon,  joined  Peacock  at  Callao  and  Oregon  at 
Columbia  River,  and  Vincennes  at  San  Francisco. 

A.  B.  Davis,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vin- 
cennes at  Columbia  Riv:.r,  and  Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 

Thomas  W.  Cumminos,  passed  midshipman,  left  sick  at  Rio. 

James  L.  Blair,  mideiiipmon,  joined  Peacock  at  Rio,  schooner  Flying 
Fish  at  Columbia  River,  and  Vincennes  at  Honolulu  River. 

James  R.  Howison,  captain's  clerk,  joined  Vincennes  at  Callao. 

J.  Black,  boatswain. 

Thomas  Lewis,  gunner,  joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Oregon  at  Co- 
lumbia River. 

Scientific  Corps, 

William  Rich,  botanist,  joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes  at 

San  Francisco. 
A.  S.  Ao«Ti,  artist,  joined  Peacock  at  Callao,  and  Vincennes  at  San 

Francisco. 

*Comroftnd  of  Flying  Fish  second  cruiw  south. 


I 


66 

V.  S.  Brig  Porpoise. 
l^ADWAiADER  RiNocoLD,  lieutenant  Commanding. 
M.  G.  L.  Ci-AiBORNB,  lieutenant,  joined  Relief  at  Orange  Bay. 
IT.  J.  Hartstein,  lieutenant,  joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
John  B.  Dale,  lieutenant,  joined  Relief  at  Callao. 
A.  S.  Baldwin,  acting  master,  joined  Peacock  at  Callao.  and  Oregon  at 

Columbia  River.  , 

a  F  B  GuiLLON,  assistant  surgeon,  joined  Peacock  at  Sydney.  Flying 

Fish  at  Columbia  River,  and  detached  at  Honolulu.  November,  1841. 
Simon  F.  Blunt,  passed  midshipman,  joined  Vincennes  at  Orange  Har- 
bor, and  left  sick  at  Honolulu  in  April,  1841. 
Gkoroe  W.  Colvocoresis.  passed  midshipman,  joined  Peacock  at 

and  Vincenpes  at  Fiji,  and  Oregon  at  San  Francisco. 
Thomas  W.  Waldron,  captain's  clerk. 
O.  Nelson,  boatswain,  detached  at  Rio. 
Amos  Chick,  carpenter,  joined  Vincennes  at  Callao. 
John  Joines,  sailmaker,  detached  at  Callao,  jomed  Relief. 
William  H.  Morse,  purser's  steward. 

Tender  Sea  Gull,  lost  about  Ul  May.  1839. 
•  James  W.  E.  Rkid,  passed  midshipman,  commandant 
F  A.  Bacon,  passed  midshipman. 
Isaac  Percival.  pilot,  joined  Relief  at  Callao. 

Tender  Flying  Fish,  sold  at  Singafore. 
SamhelR.  Knox,  commandant,  commandingschooner  most  of  the  cruise. 

and  joined  Vincennes  at  Singapore.  ,     .  r  ii-«  .„,! 

George  W.  Hammbrslv.  midshipman,  jomed  Peacock  at  Callao,  and 

RicHlRTELricE.  a'Ltant  master's  mate,  detached,  joined  Relief  at  Rio 

^CLEM80N.mid8hipman,joinedtheVincenne«,dfetachedat  Callao 

Egbert  Thompson,  midshipman,  joined  Vincennes  and  Peacock  at 

Fiiii  and  Vincennes  again  at  Columbia  River. 
A  M  Cesnev.  master's  mate,  detach.^  at  Honolulu. 
e!  H.  De  Haven,  acting  master.  joiA  Vincennes;  jomedPeac^^ 

Fiji,  and  the  Oregon,  as  first  lie /nant.  at  Columbia  P«'«- 
J  AMES  S.  PowER,>urser's  steward.ifned  Peacock  at  Callao.  and  Oregon 

at  Columbia  River.  *t 


/ 


/ 


Bay. 


and  Oregon  at 

Sydney.  Flying 
ovember,  1841. 
at  Orange  Har- 

Peacock  at 


ost  of  the  cruise, 

k  at  Callao,  and 

led  Relief  at  Rio 

tached  at  Callao. 
and  Peacock  at 


ined  Peacock  at 

ia  Fiver. 

lUao,  and  Oregon 


u 


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